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5.8, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 1 from 5 votes
FA: Cabot Steward and James Garrett, 11 June 2019
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Dead Snag

Description

PLEASE NOTE; Typical for climbing new routes in BCC, tread carefully and please wear a helmet. Be aware that some loose rocks may still exist despite extensive route cleaning. The belayer should stand away from the line of fire and have the rope in a protected spot.

Pitch #1: The start to this fun climb is just to the looker's left of the trad route Ad Lib. It follows a unique pillar/staircase feature up a a buttress and curves around back right to share the same belay  anchors as Ad Lib. 7 bolts, 5.8.

Rappel the route. Please TR and lower off your own Locking Carabiners.

Location

Big Cottonwood Canyon-Stairs Gulch-Dead Snag Area-Left of the route Ad Lib. 5 to 10 minute approach from the car. Just between East Facing Challenge Buttress and Dead Snag's SteortsRidge.

Protection

QDs for 7 Glue In Bolts to the rebolted two bolt belay.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The wilderness marker. Just before reaching the area.
[Hide Photo] The wilderness marker. Just before reaching the area.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

zoso
 
[Hide Comment] This will clean up to nearly 2 stars, meaning, it's worth doing while in the area and has some fun moves.

More importantly, I was finally able to TR Ad Lib. Heh heh. Jun 18, 2019
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] A few suspect blocks but I can tell they were worked on. An ok sport route made better by the fact that it adds some variety to a good wall. Good fun which I hope will draw more traffic to Ad Lib. Seems way cleaner than when I last did it. Thanks for the cleaning and fixed anchor. (The piton/cord anchor was pretty manky and deserved an update.) Jun 18, 2019
ddriver
SLC
[Hide Comment] I think is that the base area here is very unstable and a bolted 5.8 is going to attract the sort who tend to generate more erosion. And, unfortunately, it is not a very natural line, it does not flow very well, and there are still some sketchy blocks that are on route. Not something I will repeat. I do appreciate that the top anchor is now not such a horror show. Jun 26, 2019