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Psamead Magic

5.11-, Sport, 45 ft,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Tom and Eric Kohlman and Eric Zschiesche 1990
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Magna Carta > Monster South > Planet Claire Wall
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Start up the Fin flake feature clipping bolts. There will be a small bulge in the rock midway up. Starting at the bulge and transitioning onto the steep slab face above is the crux in my opinion. This climb starts off easy and gets progressively harder the higher you go up. Eases off slightly once you get closer to the anchor. Good holds down low and slab smearing on small crystals up top. 

Location

First route you encounter on the Planet Claire Wall.

Protection

5-Bolts
2- Bolt Chain Anchor on Top