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Dogleg Dihedral

5.10+, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.9 from 7 votes
FA: Bill Robbins and Thomas Koch, 1985
Utah > W Desert > House Range > W Sawtooth Canyon > Poodle Buttress

Description

Pitch 1 has it all: start with an excellent layback sequence off the deck. Some squeezing/chimneying continues through the corner for a ways before moving out right onto the face to overcome a series of ledgey bulges, then moves back left into the crack and good corner until a two bolt anchor at the base of the headstone hand crack (5.9)
Pitch 2: climb the sharp hand crack up to the improbable crux at it's top; a bizarre bulging roof with difficult feet and flaring hands (5.10+ or A0 5.9). Surmount this and ramble across the ledge to a belay alcove.
Pitch 3: Chimney and squeeze up, complete a step across to a short crack system and soon gain the two bolt anchor at the top of the route--let loose a ferocious poodle howl (5.9)
Rap the route with one 70 m rope.

Location

From the main campsites beneath the Tombstones, one CANNOT see this route since it is east-facing (up canyon). Head to the toe of the buttress and hike round towards the base of the obvious right-facing dihedral. Look for the vertical hand crack up high that forms a large corner system (this is the start of pitch 2)

Protection

Standard desert rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces for pitch 2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the east (up canyon)
[Hide Photo] View from the east (up canyon)
View of the route from the start; great layback section to begin (in green)
[Hide Photo] View of the route from the start; great layback section to begin (in green)
For the upper half of Pitch 1, head out right onto the face and over the ledgy bulges before rejoining the corner
[Hide Photo] For the upper half of Pitch 1, head out right onto the face and over the ledgy bulges before rejoining the corner
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is the right-facing dihedral
[Hide Photo] Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is the right-facing dihedral
Soon to do the step-across and reach the top of the route (you can see the camps in the road openings below)
[Hide Photo] Soon to do the step-across and reach the top of the route (you can see the camps in the road openings below)
J-sexy in the final goods of Pitch 1's soon-to-end corner
[Hide Photo] J-sexy in the final goods of Pitch 1's soon-to-end corner
J-sexy at the top anchors
[Hide Photo] J-sexy at the top anchors
The grunty squeezing of pitch 3
[Hide Photo] The grunty squeezing of pitch 3
The hand crack of pitch 2 before the crux
[Hide Photo] The hand crack of pitch 2 before the crux