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Dogleg Dihedral
5.10+,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.9 from 7
votes
FA: Bill Robbins and Thomas Koch, 1985
Utah
> W Desert
> House Range
> W Sawtooth Canyon
> Poodle Buttress
Description
Pitch 1 has it all: start with an excellent layback sequence off the deck. Some squeezing/chimneying continues through the corner for a ways before moving out right onto the face to overcome a series of ledgey bulges, then moves back left into the crack and good corner until a two bolt anchor at the base of the headstone hand crack (5.9)
Pitch 2: climb the sharp hand crack up to the improbable crux at it's top; a bizarre bulging roof with difficult feet and flaring hands (5.10+ or A0 5.9). Surmount this and ramble across the ledge to a belay alcove.
Pitch 3: Chimney and squeeze up, complete a step across to a short crack system and soon gain the two bolt anchor at the top of the route--let loose a ferocious poodle howl (5.9)
Rap the route with one 70 m rope.
Location
From the main campsites beneath the Tombstones, one CANNOT see this route since it is east-facing (up canyon). Head to the toe of the buttress and hike round towards the base of the obvious right-facing dihedral. Look for the vertical hand crack up high that forms a large corner system (this is the start of pitch 2)
Protection
Standard desert rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces for pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] View from the east (up canyon)
[Hide Photo] View of the route from the start; great layback section to begin (in green)
[Hide Photo] For the upper half of Pitch 1, head out right onto the face and over the ledgy bulges before rejoining the corner
[Hide Photo] Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is the right-facing dihedral
[Hide Photo] Soon to do the step-across and reach the top of the route (you can see the camps in the road openings below)
[Hide Photo] J-sexy in the final goods of Pitch 1's soon-to-end corner