Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Robbins and Thomas Koch, 1985
Page Views: 776 total · 14/month
Shared By: thehackattacks on Jun 11, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 has it all: start with an excellent layback sequence off the deck. Some squeezing/chimneying continues through the corner for a ways before moving out right onto the face to overcome a series of ledgey bulges, then moves back left into the crack and good corner until a two bolt anchor at the base of the headstone hand crack (5.9)
Pitch 2: climb the sharp hand crack up to the improbable crux at it's top; a bizarre bulging roof with difficult feet and flaring hands (5.10+ or A0 5.9). Surmount this and ramble across the ledge to a belay alcove.
Pitch 3: Chimney and squeeze up, complete a step across to a short crack system and soon gain the two bolt anchor at the top of the route--let loose a ferocious poodle howl (5.9)
Rap the route with one 70 m rope.

Location Suggest change

From the main campsites beneath the Tombstones, one CANNOT see this route since it is east-facing (up canyon). Head to the toe of the buttress and hike round towards the base of the obvious right-facing dihedral. Look for the vertical hand crack up high that forms a large corner system (this is the start of pitch 2)

Protection Suggest change

Standard desert rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces for pitch 2.