Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2600 ft, Grade III
FA: Erwin Hein, Alfred Horeschowsky, Hugo Hortnagel, and Hans Pfann - June 7, 1928
Page Views: 83 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Jun 8, 2019
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

Ascend straight up the 60-degree headwall, passing the bergschrund and staying to the right of the rock outcrop in the center of the wall.  This can be pitched out using pickets or can be simul-climbed with a running belay or soloed, depending on comfort with the terrain.  My party of two felt comfortable on this face and simul-climbed it while a guided party pitched it out—choose your own adventure.  Note this is prime calf-burning territory and the face is 1,000+ ft long at 18,500 feet elevation, so chopping out platforms to rest every so often is essential unless you have superhuman calves.

From the top of the headwall, follow the SW Ridge.  It is relatively steep and exposed at first and then flattens out quite a bit.  There are a few steeper sections and then a long, 35-40 degree slog to the base of the summit.

You'll hit a steep to overhanging ice face just below the top.  Curl around to the climber's right to find a passage.  Our party did a rising traverse on slightly off-vertical ice/neve and then were able to head up to the summit ridge.  The final ridge is low angle but has a large cornice on the climber's left.

We had poorly-protectable, unconsolidated snow on the summit, so we decided to bury a T-slotted picket and rappel down the steep ice face to get off the summit block rather than down-climbing the way we'd come up.

The rest of the descent is straightforward.  On the headwall, one can down-solo (as we did), pitched downclimb, or leave gear and rappel.  Note the headwall bakes in the late-morning and afternoon sun, so head down early to avoid rockfall and poor snow conditions.

Location

From high camp, ascend the right margin of the glacier for a ways, then move to the center of the glacier and head straight for the NW Headwall.  This route ascends just right of the rock outcrop in the middle of the face.  There is a large bergschrund near the bottom of the headwall.  A path through the center seems to generally be viable.

Protection

Pickets and ice screws

Photos

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