AI2-3 Steep Snow
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2600 ft, Grade III|
|FA:||Erwin Hein, Alfred Horeschowsky, Hugo Hortnagel, and Hans Pfann - June 7, 1928|
|Page Views:||83 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Hebert on Jun 8, 2019|
From the top of the headwall, follow the SW Ridge. It is relatively steep and exposed at first and then flattens out quite a bit. There are a few steeper sections and then a long, 35-40 degree slog to the base of the summit.
You'll hit a steep to overhanging ice face just below the top. Curl around to the climber's right to find a passage. Our party did a rising traverse on slightly off-vertical ice/neve and then were able to head up to the summit ridge. The final ridge is low angle but has a large cornice on the climber's left.
We had poorly-protectable, unconsolidated snow on the summit, so we decided to bury a T-slotted picket and rappel down the steep ice face to get off the summit block rather than down-climbing the way we'd come up.
The rest of the descent is straightforward. On the headwall, one can down-solo (as we did), pitched downclimb, or leave gear and rappel. Note the headwall bakes in the late-morning and afternoon sun, so head down early to avoid rockfall and poor snow conditions.