Avg: 4 from 9 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Simon Talltorp and friends|
|Page Views:||474 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||mikehilbert on Jun 7, 2019 · Updates|
|Admins:||Tao Techakanon, Brian Boyd|
This is a fantastic climb that ascends the left side of the prow that is home to "The Wave/Big Wave" and "Beauty and the Beast." Three pitches of interesting climbing, highlighted by a stellar third and final pitch.
Pitch 1: Climb up the three bolts on vertical tufas to slings above, leading through a maze of stalactites to an anchor about 100 feet up. Crux of this pitch is off the ground through bolt 2 but the best climbing is through the stalactites. ~ 100 feet 6a (5.10a) ***
Pitch 2: Less than vertical pocketed sharp face for 40 feet becomes more vertical and less sharp into the roof bulge crux. Big moves around the roof bulge lead to anchor for P2. Watch out for bats in the pockets on the face below the roof. ~ 100 feet 6b (5.10c) ***
Pitch 3: Face climbing on sharp holds leads to a small roof followed by a longer, more sustained roof (10c/d) which is the crux of the climb. After pulling the roof, move left for more vertical face climbing on sharp holds and pockets to the anchor. ~100 feet. 6b+ (5.10c/d) ****
This route ends about 50 feet below the final anchor for "The Big Wave/The Wave." For descent, you could rap right down the route, but there are also 2 rap anchors a little left of the route. We descended via the left rap route. From the top of P3, rap down to the anchors about 10 feet left of the top of P2. There are quite a few anchors but the person on lead rap should back clip when necessary, as parts of the climb are overhung. A 60m rope will get you to the ground in 3 raps but make sure not to skip any rap stations with a 60m rope.