Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Simon Talltorp and friends
Page Views: 474 total · 20/month
Shared By: mikehilbert on Jun 7, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Tao Techakanon, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This route has no name as of the 2019 Pocket Guide guide book but is noted on the topo as "New Route 2019 Jan." If the first ascentionist or anyone else knows the proper name, please add it here.

This is a fantastic climb that ascends the left side of the prow that is home to "The Wave/Big Wave" and "Beauty and the Beast." Three pitches of interesting climbing, highlighted by a stellar third and final pitch.  

Pitch 1: Climb up the three bolts on vertical tufas to slings above, leading through a maze of stalactites to an anchor about 100 feet up. Crux of this pitch is off the ground through bolt 2 but the best climbing is through the stalactites. ~ 100 feet 6a (5.10a) ***

Pitch 2: Less than vertical pocketed sharp face for 40 feet becomes more vertical and less sharp into the roof bulge crux. Big moves around the roof bulge lead to anchor for P2. Watch out for bats in the pockets on the face below the roof. ~ 100 feet 6b (5.10c) ***

Pitch 3: Face climbing on sharp holds leads to a small roof followed by a longer, more sustained roof (10c/d) which is the crux of the climb. After pulling the roof, move left for more vertical face climbing on sharp holds and pockets to the anchor. ~100 feet.  6b+ (5.10c/d) ****

This route ends about 50 feet below the final anchor for "The Big Wave/The Wave." For descent,  you could rap right down the route, but there are also 2 rap anchors a little left of the route.  We descended via the left rap route. From the top of P3, rap down to the anchors about 10 feet left of the top of P2. There are quite a few anchors but the person on lead rap should back clip when necessary, as parts of the climb are overhung. A 60m rope will get you to the ground in 3 raps but make sure not to skip any rap stations with a 60m rope.

Location

To the left of the "Big Wave/The Wave" on Monkey World Wall. This is the second climb from the left. The left most climb (P1 of which starts in the the cave and ascends massive stalactites on slings) is not in the most recent 2019 edition of the guidebook. 

Protection

titanium glue ins and slings. 60m rope and 15 quick draws.

Photos