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Fear of the Dark
5.11a,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 11
votes
FA: Adam Wood, Jeff Kljaich 2019
Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Index
> Upper Wall's Lo…
> Lighthouse
Description
Look for the obvious staircase of blocks leading into a tight hand crack. Follow this feature onto a small ledge. Begin moving up and right heading for a large under cling. One may find a dynamic move to a hand-jam. Protect the jam and NOT the huge ringing undercling. A pinch then big reach / dead point to a jug pocket brings you to a stance. Place some smaller gear (offset cams) at the stance. Stand high and find the crimps! Hand over hand on solid crimps flying up and right toward bolts. Clip, then stand up and clip again. A true index crux (improbable incremental feet) to another dead point (much easier if tall). Pull through with a #3 handy for some diagonal cracks and on to an anchor. An impressive onsight that may be easier for the tall. I am not tall.
Location
First route encountered. Look for the large Anvil looking block.
Protection
Three Bolts and finger cams IE 0.4 are extremely useful, keep a 3 for up top. Standard variety of Index climbing gear with a few runners.
[Hide Comment] This route features a ton of top-notch Index trickery and is my favorite of the established lines on the wall. Depending on your style the crux could be one of three sequences, all of which are super fun.
Jul 20, 2020
Seattle, WA
Van