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Fear of the Dark

5.11a, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
FA: Adam Wood, Jeff Kljaich 2019
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Wall's Lo… > Lighthouse

Description

Look for the obvious staircase of blocks leading into a tight hand crack. Follow this feature onto a small ledge. Begin moving up and right heading for a large under cling. One may find a dynamic move to a hand-jam. Protect the jam and NOT the huge ringing undercling. A pinch then big reach / dead point to a jug pocket brings you to a stance. Place some smaller gear (offset cams) at the stance. Stand high and find the crimps! Hand over hand on solid crimps flying up and right toward bolts. Clip, then stand up and clip again. A true index crux (improbable incremental feet) to another dead point (much easier if tall). Pull through with a #3 handy for some diagonal cracks and on to an anchor. An impressive onsight that may be easier for the tall. I am not tall.

Location

First route encountered. Look for the large Anvil looking block.

Protection

Three Bolts and finger cams IE 0.4 are extremely useful, keep a 3 for up top. Standard variety of Index climbing gear with a few runners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don't miss it before the moss wins again
[Hide Photo] Don't miss it before the moss wins again
Crimping
[Hide Photo] Crimping

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This route features a ton of top-notch Index trickery and is my favorite of the established lines on the wall. Depending on your style the crux could be one of three sequences, all of which are super fun. Jul 20, 2020
Matt Carroll
Van
 
[Hide Comment] Probably the best route on the wall. Super fun and a nice long pitch. A must do for any indexite May 17, 2021