One Who Flew Over the Hornets Nest
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 82 ft (25 m) |
| GPS: | 54.52337, -128.50333 |
| FA: | Meghan & Chad |
| Page Views: | 619 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jacob Birchfield on Jun 3, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Climb starts with mostly vertical crack climbing with good juggy holds. Multiple options through the crux make this climb interesting and repeatable. Good protection opportunities with cams through the first face but gets interesting as you mantle the first ledge. Very few good nut placements, bring lots of cams in a range of sizes. This climb can access the anchors below Bat Ladder (5.11-) or the anchors below Loose Tooth (5.10a). Recommend climbing the extra 4m up to Loose Tooth if only climbing a single pitch.
When combined with Loose Tooth (5.10a) these climbs serve as an access to Shangri-La wall.
Location
Walk to the far right of the zone, climb is located at the start of the fixed lines along the path that heads to Shangri-La. Route climbs the left side of the face in a distinct "notch". There is a good belay stance above a leaning tree. This is the furthest right/last climb within the zone.



1 Comment