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Sea Monkey

5.6, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 15 votes
FA: John Knight & Dan Erat
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Midgley Bridge… > Octopus's Garden

Description

Nice, easy, clean, safe route. Everything a beginning leader might want first time on the sharp end. Crux comes at the last clip before the anchors. Might be 5.7 if you head left or right of the bolt line. From the anchor you should be able to make up your own TR variations. 

Location

To get there, take the Jim Thompson trail from Midgley Bridge parking area and continue along the base of the "Submarine/Steamboat Rock" feature. The cleanest approach is to head up to the top of Pitch 2 on Motorboating and work your way south along the big ledge until you find a "cirque". Scramble up/through some Class 3 to the base of the climb and the first bolt. 

Protection

Bring 6 or 7 draws and clip away.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Western banded gecko. We surprised both of us when I moved a loose rock and this little guy crawled out. I was above the top of Sea Monkey. Didn't realize that geckos lived up high on the rock walls.
[Hide Photo] Western banded gecko. We surprised both of us when I moved a loose rock and this little guy crawled out. I was above the top of Sea Monkey. Didn't realize that geckos lived up high on the rock walls.
Great 5.6
[Hide Photo] Great 5.6
Topo of Sea Monkey
[Hide Photo] Topo of Sea Monkey
Topo showing Motorboating and Sea Monkey
[Hide Photo] Topo showing Motorboating and Sea Monkey
Learning how to clean gear.
[Hide Photo] Learning how to clean gear.
Extra Anchors near Sea Monkey?
[Hide Photo] Extra Anchors near Sea Monkey?
JK demonstrating the large "resting pocket" mid pitch. In case you get too gripped on 5.6 Just like Alex Honnold on Half Dome! Well maybe not just like but a great rest if you need it.
[Hide Photo] JK demonstrating the large "resting pocket" mid pitch. In case you get too gripped on 5.6 Just like Alex Honnold on Half Dome! Well maybe not just like but a great rest if you need it.
Dan doing chasing sea monkeys on the FA - note the "training weight" in his pack and harness.
[Hide Photo] Dan doing chasing sea monkeys on the FA - note the "training weight" in his pack and harness.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Great easy sport route. I thought it was easier than 5.6, but the crux is definitely right at/above the last bolt. There is an easy run-out to the anchors after the crux. Dec 10, 2019