Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tyler Rizzuto, Anus Herder
Page Views: 325 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tyler Rizzuto on May 29, 2019 with improvements by Anus Herder
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Permits Required to float Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb some rotten, sandy, but fairly easy terrain without pro. Place your first decent piece (#3) about 20ft off the deck. Climb to the back of the chimney to set up for the traverse. Shimmy your way out until you reach a bomber hand crack! I was happy to have a #4 for this section, could also bring a #5 if so desired. Once pulling the lip, #2s quickly become #1s, then 0.75s for the last bit. 2 bolt anchor at the top courtesy of Anus Herder, shared with Nice Dick. Don't wear shorts!

Location

The line is the right side of the arch feature that shapes the wall. This wall is located on the opposite side of the river and up ~1/4 mile from Keg Springs. Find this area by finding the Cottonwoods campground next to the 5.12 OW roof. Hike upstream following a series of cairns till water meets the cliff band, above looms an arch with climbs up each side, meeting in the center at the anchor.

Protection

A range, bring 2 #1 for the hand crack and a #4 for the chimney traverse. Only the beginning is a bit spicy/dirty, the rest is SPLITTER BABY!

Photos