Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches
FA: P Biven, T Peck 1966
Page Views: 216 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel James on May 28, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route

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British E2 5c.

A stellar route well worth doing, with excellent technical climbing on grooves.

P1: 4c, 29m. Start on the reddish band going up and left.  Branch right straight up to get onto the little cove below the large overhang. Continue up the back and traverse right to the belay at blocks on the right end of the niche.

P2: 5c, 20m.  Make the traverse left on the wall above the overhang past a black streak to a slim groove.  Possible, though awkward, to each down and place gear into the crack you are shuffling along. Climb the difficult groove to the ledge shared with the optional belay below the crux of Suicide Wall. You can easily stand and rest here. Go *slightly* left up another groove (not the one with the two pins) to get to the large belay ledge, again shared with Suicide Wall.

P3: 5c, 20m. Go the left end of the ledge and make a difficult and committing move out left. Continue up more easily to cracks and grooves.  Most entertaining if choose to make a somewhat strenuous belly flop onto a sloping rock directly above.


Clamber down past the rocks at the base of Doorpost under the Coal Face. Identify the band of reddish rock going up and left.


Standard rack of wires and cams to BD#3. Doubles in small cams recommended.