Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: P Biven, T Peck, B Biven 1955
Page Views: 85 total · 13/month
Shared By: Daniel James on May 28, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


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Description

UK E1 5c.

Another classic of Bosi and all of Cornwall that brings you all the way up the main face of Bosigran.

P1: 25m. Follow the easy line of weakness up the ramp to the base of the Coal Face. Can be skipped by using the scramble up from Bow Wall.

P2: 4b, 14m. Climb the diagonal crack up left across the Coal Face, to belay on the Pedastal Stance out left from the face on the arete.

P3: 5c, 24m. Head left from the belay along flakes to a wide horizontal break. Continue left and get up onto a small ledge below a groove with a couple pitons in it (optional belay here). Going up this groove is the crux, but is very well protected.  Enjoy the large belay ledge just above.

P4: 4b, 15m. Head up the corner and either swing right on good holds out of the corner to easy climbing and the top or continue directly up the leaning corner at 5a (top pitch of Paragon).

Location

Identify the massive black slab of the Coal Face on the main wall of Bosigran.  For the traditional start, identify the ramp that slopes up to said face from the left and start at its bottom.  Alternatively scramble up easily as for Bow Wall and do a hand traverse over to a stance at the start of P2.

Protection

Standard rack of wires and cams to BD#3. Optional 4. 2 fixed pins. Gear belays.

Photos

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