Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: J Brown 1957
Page Views: 344 total · 11/month
Shared By: Daniel James on May 28, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


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Description

UK E2 5b.

Considered "Bosigran's most celebrated extreme", a designation well deserved.  Bow Wall holds wonderfully varied and well protected climbing in two stellar pitches that tackle the main wall of Bosigran.

Gear up then scramble to the small ledge that you can anchor your belayer on with a sling.

P1: 5b, 26m. Head up and right across the wall above, being careful on the detached block immediately above the belay. Continue up a vertical crack past some horizontal breaks, and traverse right on good jams above to gain a cramped slab under an overhang.  Read the sometimes misleading sequence correctly to move right and surmount the overhang. If you botch this bit, enjoy a lovely clean ride into space off of bomber gear! Semi hanging belay above.

P2: 5b, 26m. Traverse left on exposed ground to a diagonal break.  Enjoy the easier ground and head up, intersecting with the end of Doorpost and Doorway to reach the top of the wall.

Location

Walk along to the pile of rocks below the popular traverse at the start of Doorpost.  Scramble up an easy corner/crack to a small ledge under a large light brown wall.  This is directly right of the large prominent black wall known as the Coal Face, bisected by the crack starting Suicide Wall.

Protection

Standard rack of wires and cams to BD#3. Optional but readily placed #4. Doubles on small cams recommended.

Photos

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