Type: Trad, TR, Alpine, 120 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kerr Adams, Kathleen Barney, Garon Coriz
Page Views: 221 total · 58/month
Shared By: Garon C on May 26, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

It is possible to break this up into 2 short pitches or combine them into 1 with a 60-meter rope.

Pitch 1: 5.7 - Intermittent steps complicated by vegetation from the ground up for 30 feet. Small cams or nuts will suffice through this section. Loose rock in the chimney above may still exist despite cleaning efforts. Small cams work well through here. Once out of the chimney veer up and left upon a series of easy, wide ledges to the bottom of the money crack. 1-1.5" pieces work well for an anchor at the base of the crack.

Pitch 2: 5.10 - Ascend the crack above using smears and steps to either side. A size 3 or 4 cam can be placed before the crack widens, and another may be place 8-10 feet above when the crack returns to fist size. Hand width cracks turn to finger cracks over 15 feet with good feet to the roof. A size 6 cam can be placed into the crack above in the roof or a smaller size 1 cam can sit 3 feet lower. A good hand jam with a strong pull to a bomber shelf handhold will allow passage through the crux. A size 5 can be placed in the crack immediately above the roof. Lichen-heavy terrain with a meandering hand crack leads to broken ledges to the top of the formation. Belay off the large sturdy pine.

Location

Continue northward (up) the broad gully from Miss Piggy and Birth of the Cool for another 100 meters (300 feet). The route is on the southern end of the next rock wall to the East (climber's right) and has an obvious large crack half way up with a roof. The climb starts 20 feet left of a large pine on a fairly wide open ledge.

Protection

Standard rack up to size 5 (BD Camalots). An extra size 4 is nice to have. There are 2 spots for size 6 BD cams but they are not necessary.

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