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Bareknuckle Dirt Tango
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Trick or Treat Wall
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[Closure Advised] Unknown T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c X |
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Bareknuckle Dirt Tango T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bat Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bella's Neck Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Binx T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Cat From The Left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bouncer, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cams Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cow Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cowboys from Mars T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deadbolt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreams of Electric Aardvarks T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Easter Jeepers Creepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Empty Stomach T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Goblin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hershey’s Dark T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hong Like A Horse T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Horse Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jeckl & Hyde T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jimmy Dean T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lock, Shock, and Barrel T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Not a bomb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Overthruster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pony Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Q T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Relentless T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sandy Claws T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Season of the Witch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shine, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Skinwalker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smell My Feet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spell, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stagefright T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Too Much Candy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Trick or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Trick or Treat Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Two Bad Bricks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Vulcan Neck Pinch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05109, -109.56195 |
| FA: | Nelson Klein, Leif Solberg, April, 2019 |
| Page Views: | 817 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Nelson K on May 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
"Bareknuckle Dirt Tango 5.9++/5.11+" starts by jamming behind a partially detached flake in a crack (jams fine but gear probably wouldn't hold a good fall) to get into the left facing flare. First with deep handjams, then jamming and kneebarring up a very clean but sustained .75 flare above, the route works its way toward a good rest under an intimidating roof.
The roof is the crux, protected by a #5 below as you make tricky exit moves with a mix of burly handjams, offwidth moves and face holds to exit and continue up the sassy handcrack above. Two more large pods above, one filled with a large block, provide rest in the upper portion of the route. Tape or jammies might be a good idea for some flaring jams and calcite ridges but the original style was, you guessed it, bareknuckle (although at the expense of some skin).
Anchors are left of an alcove above the pods. Two ropes are necessary as an 80m rope does not reach the ground on rappel (45m).
Location
Continue past the far right side of the wall doing your best to stay high and follow the faint makings of a path. Pass the alcove with a (likely dry) seep and waterfall and continue along the base of the east-facing back wall. Continue past Future Starts Slow and into a lighter colored alcove with two obvious lines on left and right - a massive roof on lighter colored rock above a broken corner at left (still awaiting an ascent) and an obvious left-trending crack at right (the goods).
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