PRINT: Rock Climb Mount Crushmore, 1. Northern Vermont

Mount Crushmore

5.10c, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.2 from 48 votes
FA: Andrew Schumer, Mischa Tourin, Travis Peckham, May 2019
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Bolton Dome > 07. The Pirate's Cove

Access Issue: Parking and Dogs Details

CRAG-VT has secured a parking lot for the Bolton Dome! Currently there is room for 12 cars. Turn onto Champ Ln. and the parking lot is immediately seen on the left. There are signs to show you where to park. From the lot, walk up to the cliff.

IF THE LOT IS FULL: Park on the SOUTH side of the road clear of any mailboxes and with all tires off the paved portion of the road.

Additionally, no dogs are allowed at Bolton Dome after a few incidents involving neighbors.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

P.1 – (5.8) Scramble up past a high first bolt on the face left of the corner that splits the Cove. Make a few punchy moves below the roof and traverse your way out along a left trending crack to exit the Cove. Pull crimps up and right on the slab above to gain a comfortable ledge. 11 bolts to two bolt anchor. 100 feet

P.2 – (5.10c) Step right from the belay and stem off a ramp to clip a high first bolt. The face climbing gets increasingly harder as the holds get increasingly smaller. 10 bolts to a lower off anchor below the headwall. 80 feet

You can lower off here or venture onward to the Presidential Finish (5.12a). Link the extension as one long pitch to avoid an uncomfortable belay. Make your way onto the headwall with a generous horizontal crack leading to powerful and crimpy moves above. 3 bolts to lower off anchor. 20 feet.

A 60 meter rap will get you from the top of the extension to the P.1 ledge and another will get you to the base of the route.

Location

Partway up the gully that leads to the Neighborhood Ledge is the Cove. Mount Crushmore is the route to the left of the corner that splits the Cove.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes that begin in the Pirate's Cove

Unknown climber makes his way up pitch one of Mount Crushmore

Andrew Schumer on the FA of the p.2 extension headwall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mischa Tourin
Underhill, VT

5.10c

Rings added to the top of pitch 1. Hope whoever nabbed the temporary Choiunard Equipment ovals enjoyed kinking their rope on their rappel! Jul 20, 2019

june m
elmore, vt

First pitch is still dirty as the belay ledge is dirt, impossible to keep you shoes clean Sep 25, 2019

Mischa Tourin
Underhill, VT

5.10c

Added a first bolt on 5/13/12 as Mt. Crushmore has become somewhat of a trade route and the soil has compacted at the base making the (former) first bolt further and further away. First pitch is now 12 bolts.

June - I didn't really experience this as a problem but could see if it was damp out this might be annoying. The climbing was cleaned extensively, but the belay ledge isn't really dirt... it's fully vegetated and not something I would justify removing all the way down to the rock. I would suggest treating it however you would mitigate stepping on soil at the base of a climb, as the top is no dirtier than the start. May 14, 2020

june m
elmore, vt

This climb has definitely cleaned up since I first climbed it Jun 19, 2022