Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Kyran Keisling
Page Views: 44 total · 44/month
Shared By: Kyran Keisling on May 23, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This TR allows for a few different variations.  The TR chains are easily reached from the top and there are a pair of access anchors in the short band of rock above the main cliff that allow access to the top of the El Ponzon wall but they can used for this route if you desire a bit more safety. These routes are new and need a bit more cleaning (5-27-19).  

1. Deez Nuts - Start on the left in a crack under an overhang,  stem the dihedral and go around the small roof, then follow a thin seam through extremely sharp black rock using smooth, silky chert nodule nut sacks and edges that allow you to float above the sharpness.  This route is actually pretty fun.  There are still a few chunks of choss that need to be pried off this one at 3/4 height to beware of. There is a trilogy of seams just up and right that look fun but I didn't climb them because they are too sharp.  The seam for Deez is a single seam.    

2. So Much Drama - Start on an arete and work into the crack that angles right and joins the dihedral for "In the LBC".  This route is very sharp and awkward.   

3.  In the LBC - The movement on this route is pleasant and the rock is pretty good.  The wide crack can be stemmed and no off widthing is required.

Location

Look for the upside down Y crack behind a large boulder that looks like it would be fun to climb.  (It's not).

Protection

Bolts - Chains

Photos

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