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Tandem Towers: Happy Cycling

5.12, Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: FA Zach Bishop & Steve "Crusher" Bartlett April '05, FFA Dakota Walz & Ryan Gajewski May '19
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Smith Cabin

Description

The Tandem Towers are two "towers" that push the definition of towers being taller than they are wide. They were first aid climbed by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Zach Bishop, and Stu Ritchie in 2005 via routes on the East side.

P1
This is the money pitch. Immediately zap all your energy in a 15ft squeeze OW. Then, pullout to a .75 splitter that quickly flares for another 15 feet (crux). Gain a rest and swim up perfect wide hands/cups to a great belay that takes #1- #2. (5.12, 25m).

P2
Off the belay, climb fantastic hands to fists in a zig zag crack. Then navigate a really sandy, loose section that most may find safer to aid. After pulling the second wide bulge, either belay at a ledge or deal with the rope drag for another 50ft of 5.6 to the summit. (5.11+, 40m).

Location

Northern Reef, Smith Cabin Area. From the parking area hike due west crossing the creek at roughly a tenth of a mile. Follow the wash west for .6 miles until reaching an open area where the canyon opens four ways. Continue due west and stay low in the wash for .85 miles. Then, exit up out of the wash toward the towers. This route is the obvious line that can be seen on the east aspect. 

Protection

Single .5, #5, #6
Double .75 - #4
Alpine draws
Two 60m ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch one and most of pitch two
[Hide Photo] Pitch one and most of pitch two
Happy Cycling on the Tandem Towers
[Hide Photo] Happy Cycling on the Tandem Towers
Quumfing, the south tower of the Tandem Towers, with FA line from 2005
[Hide Photo] Quumfing, the south tower of the Tandem Towers, with FA line from 2005
Ryan finishing up the wide hands/cups of the first pitch
[Hide Photo] Ryan finishing up the wide hands/cups of the first pitch