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5.8, Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
FA: Unknown; FRA: Bryan Schmitz, Trevor Bowman, Pete Thompson (Sept. 2005)
Montana > Southwest Region > Bozeman Area > Madison River Area > Bear Trap Rd Ro… > Crew Crag

Description

This was a surprisingly fun line, even if a little dirty from lack of traffic. Fun crack/face climbing, cool rock features, and good protection. The rock quality on the upper half of the route improves over the lower half. This could easily be linked together as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (80', 5.8) Climb the leftish facing corner hand crack system littered with interesting pocketed, swirling face features. Pass the first ledge you come to. Good belay spot is on a little perch underneath bomber, clean rock with a finger crack 20’ above the first large bush. Save some small gear (0.3-0.4) for the belay.

Pitch 2: (60', 5.8) Climb the short but fantastic finger crack above the belay past some ledges, and stem up and right through the airy finish. Belay at chains.

Descent: One rappel back to ledge with 70m rope, or two rappels from midway chains. (Protip: Stopping at midway chains with a 70 m allows you to rappel ALL the way back to the ground, skipping the down climbing off the ledge)

Location

Up on the same grassy ledge as other routes in this area. Scramble up the chimney / notch. Once on the ledge, route starts from the far lower left hand side of the ledge. About 15 feet left of the "Balance of Power" bolt line.

Protection

Cams and nuts 0.3-3". Micro cams can help, but aren't needed. Chains on top of P2 (shared with "Balance of Power").

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Scramble up to the crack then jam your way through the bulge onto better holds and some ledges above.
[Hide Photo] Scramble up to the crack then jam your way through the bulge onto better holds and some ledges above.
Scramble up to the crack then follow it to a few good ledges.  Follow the path of least resistance as you move towards the topout.  No anchors on this route.  After you top out, move to the top of the right face to begin the rappel(s).
[Hide Photo] Scramble up to the crack then follow it to a few good ledges. Follow the path of least resistance as you move towards the topout. No anchors on this route. After you top out, move to the top of…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Parker
Belgrade, MT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] My 70m came up about 5ft shy of the ground and I wasn't sure if rope stretch would make up the difference so I opted to stop at midway bolts and do a 2nd rappel. Jun 10, 2019
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Definitely makes it with stretch. You can swing over to the right a hair too. However, rapping from midway allows you to then rappel over the down climb, which is nice. Jun 10, 2019