Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Unknown; FRA: Bryan Schmitz, Trevor Bowman, Pete Thompson (Sept. 2005)
Page Views: 444 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on May 19, 2019
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

This was a surprisingly fun line, even if a little dirty from lack of traffic. Fun crack/face climbing, cool rock features, and good protection. The rock quality on the upper half of the route improves over the lower half. This could easily be linked together as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (80', 5.8) Climb the leftish facing corner hand crack system littered with interesting pocketed, swirling face features. Pass the first ledge you come to. Good belay spot is on a little perch underneath bomber, clean rock with a finger crack 20’ above the first large bush. Save some small gear (0.3-0.4) for the belay.

Pitch 2: (60', 5.8) Climb the short but fantastic finger crack above the belay past some ledges, and stem up and right through the airy finish. Belay at chains.

Descent: One rappel back to ledge with 70m rope, or two rappels from midway chains. (Protip: Stopping at midway chains with a 70 m allows you to rappel ALL the way back to the ground, skipping the down climbing off the ledge)

Location

Up on the same grassy ledge as other routes in this area. Scramble up the chimney / notch. Once on the ledge, route starts from the far lower left hand side of the ledge. About 15 feet left of the "Balance of Power" bolt line.

Protection

Cams and nuts 0.3-3". Micro cams can help, but aren't needed. Chains on top of P2 (shared with "Balance of Power").

Photos