Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Jordan Katz, July 2017
Page Views: 663 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on May 16, 2019
Admins: Courtney Curtner

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Start on the bouldery finger crack, move into pockets, then start the business moving through the big crack in the roof.  Work the off-width (5.12?) or move left onto face holds to gain a large ledge.  Walk a few feet to the right and finish the upper crack to the anchors.  Awesome moves to the ledge, and fun to the top.

Note: It is possible to protect very well throughout, but if you sew it up down low, the rope drag up top will be ultra heinous. So you choose: run it out down low or suffer at the top!  Either way, long slings recommended down low!  You can always puss out and clip bolts on sport line to the left.

You could also imagine a number of fun variations.  1)  Just climb the overhanging crack start, and then lower off the anchors for "Just Say No to Crack."  2) Make it a mixed route and start up any of the three sport routes to the right of the off-width and then go to the top on gear to make the line a bit less winding, although rope drag may be problematic nonetheless (back-clean 1st draw or two?)   3)  Climb the overhanging wide crack, but then move left to go to the top via Wet Dreams. 

Protection

Standard rack to #4 plus a #5 or #6 if you want to sew up the off-width (it's very easy climbing). Some long runners to manage drag.  Bolted anchors up top.

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