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Born on the Fourth of July
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in E. Poison Ivy Wall ("The Cave")
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Basket Case, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Born on the Fourth of July T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bush League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Calf Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crackhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crimps for Wimps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep End, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Don't Break It if You Can't Buy It S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Final Exam, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jugs for Thugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Landers Last Gander S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leaves of Three S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Longaberger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Major League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ninja Skill Called Trad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pistol Squat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Reach for your Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Roofs for Goofs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sink or Swim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twelfth 12, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unfinished Business S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Wet Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Jordan Katz, July 2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,056 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on May 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
Start on the bouldery finger crack, move into pockets, then start the business moving through the big crack in the roof. Work the off-width (5.12?) or move left onto face holds to gain a large ledge. Walk a few feet to the right and finish the upper crack to the anchors. Awesome moves to the ledge, and fun to the top.
Note: It is possible to protect very well throughout, but if you sew it up down low, the rope drag up top will be ultra heinous. So you choose: run it out down low or suffer at the top! Either way, long slings recommended down low! You can always puss out and clip bolts on sport line to the left.
You could also imagine a number of fun variations. 1) Just climb the overhanging crack start, and then lower off the anchors for "Just Say No to Crack." 2) Make it a mixed route and start up any of the three sport routes to the right of the off-width and then go to the top on gear to make the line a bit less winding, although rope drag may be problematic nonetheless (back-clean 1st draw or two?) 3) Climb the overhanging wide crack, but then move left to go to the top via Wet Dreams.
Will be dripping water for most of late winter and well into the spring.
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