Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Voodoo Bliss

5.13b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Mike Carville, April 1990
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Emeralds > Steel Monkey Wall
Warning Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the obvious overhang problem. Trust me the movement is even more fun then it looks!
Due to a broken hold the route now starts up White Riot(crack dihedral) until you can reach the obvious reinforced jug out left. Fire some fun big moves to situate your self over the roof,  traverse left to the jugs under the bolt line, avoiding moving over to the crack on the right(this whole bit felt mid 5.12). From here bust straight up using some interesting side pulls and edges to a cool pocket. Continue straight up from here through more edges and a sloper to finishing jug under the White Riot anchors( lower to mid 5.13). Bouldery route, super fun, and deserves more attention!

*****WARNING*****I HIGHLY RECOMMEND SKIPPING THE FIRST BOLT WITH THE BLUE TAG, PRE-CLIPPING & EXTENDING THE SECOND(OR ALSO SKIPPING), AND EXTENDING THE THIRD BOLT. You want to make sure the rope isn't going to get snagged under the sharp edge of the roof by the first two bolts! A fall from the top of the route could lead to a VERY HARD catch due to the way the rope drags under the roof and over that edge. I would climb White Riot(5.11a) and on the way down pre-clip the bolts at the beginning.

Location

Right of Bad Monkey. Start on White Riot(crack)

Protection

6 bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vlad S
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I cleaned up a lot of the lichen, dust and cobwebs from this route this past weekend. The fist half climbs relatively straight-forward, but I couldn't figure out the blank finish especially moving between the 2 manufactured pockets. There's no feet there and the wall is very dirty and hard to smear on. Any beta? Overall, very underwhelming quality compared to its neighbor to the left. May 28, 2024