PRINT: Rock Climb Locktite, Indian Creek

Locktite

5.11, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: The Dynamic Duo themselves; Jay Smith and Jim Donini
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Hurt Locker Area

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This route is great. It's identifiable as a long finger crack that faces south south-west, with an anchor consisting of two Metolious rappel hangers. The climbing is engaging and reminds me of an easier version of another of Jay's routes; Manta Ray. Lots of features and lots of finger crack climbing. The original grade of 11- seemed like a sandbag but stick with that if you feel it's fitting.

Location

This route is left of the two .10+ routes Locked Out and Master Lock. It's located up on a bit of a pedestal, and starts out quite thin and bouldery with speckled tan and varnished rock.

Protection

Lots of finger-sized cams from BD .3 to .5. I also used some small c3s with runners to protect the start. The route is long and I think I remember a 70m rope being necessary.