Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: The Dynamic Duo themselves; Jay Smith and Jim Donini
Page Views: 62 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on May 11, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is great. It's identifiable as a long finger crack that faces south south-west, with an anchor consisting of two Metolious rappel hangers. The climbing is engaging, and reminds me of an easier version of another of Jay's routes, Manta Ray. Lots of features and lots of finger crack climbing. The original grade of 11- seemed like a sandbag but stick with that if you feel it's fitting.

Location

This route is left of the two .10+ routes Locked Out and Master Lock. It's located up on a bit of a pedestal, and starts out quite thin and bouldery with speckled tan and varnished rock. 

Protection

Lots of finger-sized cams from BD .3 to .5. I also used some small c3s with runners to protect the start. The route is long and I think I remember a 70m rope being necessary.

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