Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Nate Sydnor and Joe Stern - FFA Nate Sydnor and Dave Sadoff |
Page Views: | 981 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on May 11, 2019 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
For those unfamiliar with the term, Staff Sergeant William James specialized in diffusing IEDs (Improvised Explosive Devices) in the Oscar-winning movie "The Hurt Locker." You might need to set one off to send this thing.
This Winter we had a good crew of folks who were motivated to posse up at this wall and get busy with some new routes. This is one of 8 additions we collectively put up in January. Many thanks to all those involved.
The route is amazing, and I feel very fortunate to have stumbled upon it. I think it is comparable to Burl Dog in style, quality and difficulty. I would love for some folks to go repeat it, as I think it is one of the better routes I've found and I think it measures up nicely on the tiny crack test-piece circuit.
The climbing is mostly very thin and the crux is technical lie-backing reminiscent of Burl Dog but just a tad easier I think. I'll let others help level out the grade. There is a good ol' fashioned off-width section after the crux as well that adds to the character, but it has a finger crack barely within reach in the back so big gear is not necessary. One can simply run it out or plug in a finger-sized cam deep in there. Imagine carrying a BD #6 through the crux of Burl Dog and you'll see what I mean about foregoing gear of that size.
Another note; In the crux it would be difficult to stop and place gear, as you're lie-backing for all you're worth and the crack tapers to next to nothing. Therefor I think it should be said that this route could be considered a little PG-13 for Indian Creek when truly giving it hell. If you blow it making the final moves of the crux you're taking a ride onto some small gear. Proceed accordingly. Someone stronger could likely stop and fiddle in a purple or grey c3, but I think it's wiser to just make a run for the tips crack after placing your last sensibly-sized cams.
This Winter we had a good crew of folks who were motivated to posse up at this wall and get busy with some new routes. This is one of 8 additions we collectively put up in January. Many thanks to all those involved.
The route is amazing, and I feel very fortunate to have stumbled upon it. I think it is comparable to Burl Dog in style, quality and difficulty. I would love for some folks to go repeat it, as I think it is one of the better routes I've found and I think it measures up nicely on the tiny crack test-piece circuit.
The climbing is mostly very thin and the crux is technical lie-backing reminiscent of Burl Dog but just a tad easier I think. I'll let others help level out the grade. There is a good ol' fashioned off-width section after the crux as well that adds to the character, but it has a finger crack barely within reach in the back so big gear is not necessary. One can simply run it out or plug in a finger-sized cam deep in there. Imagine carrying a BD #6 through the crux of Burl Dog and you'll see what I mean about foregoing gear of that size.
Another note; In the crux it would be difficult to stop and place gear, as you're lie-backing for all you're worth and the crack tapers to next to nothing. Therefor I think it should be said that this route could be considered a little PG-13 for Indian Creek when truly giving it hell. If you blow it making the final moves of the crux you're taking a ride onto some small gear. Proceed accordingly. Someone stronger could likely stop and fiddle in a purple or grey c3, but I think it's wiser to just make a run for the tips crack after placing your last sensibly-sized cams.
Location
This route is located in a distinct red shield all by itself. It is left of Hurt Locker and right of the two .10+ routes Locked Out and Master Lock. The photos will help with identification.
Protection
A healthy serving of tiny cams from purple to red c3/green Alien, along with likely three or four pieces in the BD .3 /yellow Alien/.4 range. That's about it. If you are considering going into C1 mode you likely need more than that, but if you belong on this route you should be able to ascertain from the ground what you need. A 60m rope works fine.
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