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Tucupit nova

5.11, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Karl Kvashay, Brandon Gottung
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Kolob Canyon > N Fork of Taylor > Tucupit
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Good Summer Route

Tucupit nova is cut in the same caliber stone as Tucupit occidentalis. Anticipate a longer, more challenging and much more adventurous outing. The topo should provide enough information but here are some notes that may be helpful:

-Make sure to save a #5 (or bump it along) for the crux of pitch one, near the top. Very sustained, physical 60 m pitch.

-On pitch two, chimney up to the constriction, place gear, then transition to the outside of the crack/pillar (continuing inside is the Nightlight var. to the Pain Chamber). The roof above is beautiful, intimidating and not nearly as difficult as it looks. It's best to climb through the deep flare and belay at the spectacular supernova ledge but there are earlier options if the rope drags (important to extend gear).

-Pitch three has a short, thin crux followed by lots perfect finger locks and stops in the cave at a two-bolt belay.

-Pitch 4 is a Tucupit classic with three distinct cruxes and lots of perfect hand jams.

The route then joins T.occidentalis at pitch 5 with an exciting traverse into the corner below the rocker block.

This route was originally climbed with zero bolts. Anchors were added to make for a better climbing experience for future ascents.

Location

From the west face, 3rd class down ledges towards the north face. A short rappel from Rhus aromatica shrubs is optional. Begin from nova ledge. A comfortable bivy for two.

Protection

Double set cams to #5, with 1 extra #1. Slim set stoppers. A dozen slings and draws. Optional #6 / green bigbro. Optional extra #5s for pitch 1.

Two 60 m ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Petrushka leading third pitch.
[Hide Photo] Petrushka leading third pitch.
FA of first of three cruxes on the phenomenal fourth pitch..
[Hide Photo] FA of first of three cruxes on the phenomenal fourth pitch..
Tucupit nova topo
[Hide Photo] Tucupit nova topo
Jane following the 1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] Jane following the 1st pitch.