Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Karl Kvashay, Brandon Gottung |
Page Views: | 2,414 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Brandon Gottung on May 7, 2019 |
Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Good Summer Route
Tucupit nova is cut in the same caliber stone as Tucupit occidentalis. Anticipate a longer, more challenging and much more adventurous outing. The topo should provide enough information but here are some notes that may be helpful:
-Make sure to save a #5 (or bump it along) for the crux of pitch one, near the top. Very sustained, physical 60 m pitch.
-On pitch two, chimney up to the constriction, place gear, then transition to the outside of the crack/pillar (continuing inside is the Nightlight var. to the Pain Chamber). The roof above is beautiful, intimidating and not nearly as difficult as it looks. It's best to climb through the deep flare and belay at the spectacular supernova ledge but there are earlier options if the rope drags (important to extend gear).
-Pitch three has a short, thin crux followed by lots perfect finger locks and stops in the cave at a two-bolt belay.
-Pitch 4 is a Tucupit classic with three distinct cruxes and lots of perfect hand jams.
The route then joins T.occidentalis at pitch 5 with an exciting traverse into the corner below the rocker block.
This route was originally climbed with zero bolts. Anchors were added to make for a better climbing experience for future ascents.
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