Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond, Fall 1995
Page Views: 453 total · 18/month
Shared By: Robert Rowsam on May 5, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

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Description

The Squaw Fingers are a rarely visited line of towers in the back of Monument Canyon, a drainage south of the Coke Ovens. The rock is pretty decent, and it seems many bats spend their nights on the towers. The Ring Finger is the second tower uphill. The route climbs the North face.

P1: Probably a few options, but the goal is to get on top of the obvious block. We took a chimney up a few feet, moved right to a OW crack, than a low angle hand crack in a corner to the ledge. Build a belay.

P2: Start with fingers off the belay, ending up at a beautiful twin hand crack. The hand crack widens to fists as the angle lessens. Traverse over some junk rock then make less than perfectly protected 5.8 moves to the summit.

Rap with 2 ropes from the summit.

Location

As far as I know, there is no trail that will take you to the Squaw Fingers. You can approach from the Upper Monument Trailhead, heading South as you pass the Coke Ovens to the next drainage. The towers will be obvious. You can also park on the road and miserably bushwhack down a drainage to them, making one 70 foot rap (not recommended).

Protection

Doubles from 0.3-4, one red C3, and one #5.

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