Type: Trad, 760 ft (230 m), 5 pitches
FA: Joanne Urioste & Karsten Duncan, fall 2007
Page Views: 702 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Sirois on May 4, 2019
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The first two pitches are the main attraction in addition to a lovely ~spire summit with great views of Crimson Chrysalis.

P1 5.8 (Scary Larryesque / Herbsty) 115': Up the chimney. The initial roof goes easier than you might expect, but then things gradually escalate. Suspect rock at times contributes to an adventurous pitch. Upon exit from the chimney climb ten more feet over a bulge to chain anchors.

P2 5.7 125': Move left 8' to the left hand crack system and launch straight up for ~120' until a belay is convenient ~30-40' below a tree up and left.

P3 5.7 190': Move up and left close to the tree but then launch up and right following the right trending crack / ramp. When you see bolted anchors to the left set a belay just under a steeper headwall with a mossy finger crack splitting it.

P4 5.9 (soft) 150': Follow the finger crack over the steep bit onto a yellow slab. Continue straight up to a small ledge and set a belay.

P5 5.7 180': Move up and left to a right trending crack / ramp. Follow this over a bulge and continue past its end to the summit. Hip belay or small gear just below summit for an anchor.

Drop down the back side of the spire and climb up a left facing corner crack to the next spire top. Another dip down and back up gets you to the last spiry bit. Most folks should feel comfortable unroping here. Contour back to Brownstone and follow its descent.

Location

Approach as for Aquarium. Starts in the large chimney just right of the start of Aquarium.

Protection

Single rack to 4" sufficed.

Photos

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