Type: | Trad, 760 ft (230 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Joanne Urioste & Karsten Duncan, fall 2007 |
Page Views: | 702 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | John Sirois on May 4, 2019 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The first two pitches are the main attraction in addition to a lovely ~spire summit with great views of Crimson Chrysalis.
P1 5.8 (Scary Larryesque / Herbsty) 115': Up the chimney. The initial roof goes easier than you might expect, but then things gradually escalate. Suspect rock at times contributes to an adventurous pitch. Upon exit from the chimney climb ten more feet over a bulge to chain anchors.
P2 5.7 125': Move left 8' to the left hand crack system and launch straight up for ~120' until a belay is convenient ~30-40' below a tree up and left.
P3 5.7 190': Move up and left close to the tree but then launch up and right following the right trending crack / ramp. When you see bolted anchors to the left set a belay just under a steeper headwall with a mossy finger crack splitting it.
P4 5.9 (soft) 150': Follow the finger crack over the steep bit onto a yellow slab. Continue straight up to a small ledge and set a belay.
P5 5.7 180': Move up and left to a right trending crack / ramp. Follow this over a bulge and continue past its end to the summit. Hip belay or small gear just below summit for an anchor.
Drop down the back side of the spire and climb up a left facing corner crack to the next spire top. Another dip down and back up gets you to the last spiry bit. Most folks should feel comfortable unroping here. Contour back to Brownstone and follow its descent.
P1 5.8 (Scary Larryesque / Herbsty) 115': Up the chimney. The initial roof goes easier than you might expect, but then things gradually escalate. Suspect rock at times contributes to an adventurous pitch. Upon exit from the chimney climb ten more feet over a bulge to chain anchors.
P2 5.7 125': Move left 8' to the left hand crack system and launch straight up for ~120' until a belay is convenient ~30-40' below a tree up and left.
P3 5.7 190': Move up and left close to the tree but then launch up and right following the right trending crack / ramp. When you see bolted anchors to the left set a belay just under a steeper headwall with a mossy finger crack splitting it.
P4 5.9 (soft) 150': Follow the finger crack over the steep bit onto a yellow slab. Continue straight up to a small ledge and set a belay.
P5 5.7 180': Move up and left to a right trending crack / ramp. Follow this over a bulge and continue past its end to the summit. Hip belay or small gear just below summit for an anchor.
Drop down the back side of the spire and climb up a left facing corner crack to the next spire top. Another dip down and back up gets you to the last spiry bit. Most folks should feel comfortable unroping here. Contour back to Brownstone and follow its descent.
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