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> Mr Magoo Boulder
Bates Problem (Sit)
V10 YDS 7C+ Font
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Mr Magoo Boulder
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Bates Eliminate (Sit) V11 8A |
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Bates Eliminate (stand) V6 7A |
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Bates Problem (Arete) V2 5+ |
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Bates Problem (Sit) V10 7C+ |
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Bates Problem (stand) V5 6C |
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Dirty Slab V1+ 5 |
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Finger Warm Up + V2 5+ |
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Gonzo V2 5+ |
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Magoo Face V2 5+ |
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Magoo Slap V7-8 7B |
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Magoo Traverse V1 5 |
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Magoo Traverse Start V0 4 |
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Mantle V1 5 |
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Mini ridge V0 4 |
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Mr Magoo V1-2 5 |
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One Hand V1 5 |
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Overhanging Lieback V2-3 5+ |
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Roof Problem V0- 4- |
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Sea Of Anarchy (?) V1 5 |
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Unnamed V1 5 |
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Unnamed (Left of Magoo) V7 7A+ |
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Unnamed 2 V0- 4- |
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Warm Up V0 4 |
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Welcome to Flavortown (Unknown Eliminate) V2+ 5+ |
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When Magoo Flew (Dyno) V7-8 7B |
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Yoga Master V2 5+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
| FA: | Chris Sharma |
| Page Views: | 2,012 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Harris on Apr 29, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is the sit start to Bates Problem on the Magoo Boulder. Start with both hands on the low horn/edge near the tree, left foot on the tiny dish, right foot smeared almost on the tree. Hard first move to a small left hand edge, another hard move to the right hand above it. From there its Bates Problem with it's variations.
Note on Grade/Break - There was a hold breakage on the second hard move. The hold is bigger now but more of a sidepull - apparently made this harder.
4 Comments