Type: Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 285 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel Kaye on Apr 29, 2019
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, David Riley

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Summer closures Details

Description

Follow generously-spaced bolts of consistently 6b slab moves with some OK places to rest, and a slab-crux just left of a bush (the clip is out right and kinda tricky to make). COntinue up and trend right, eventually traversing left 5 or 10 feet to reach a diagonal fissure in the rock. This is where the route literally crosses with a 6a+, s the bolts are a bit confusing. Move up the diagonal for a bit, and if the roof doesn't scare you into escaping up and right - continue up and left to a scrunched rest before taking on the roof.

It has great holds, but takes tome technique and body tension to find and get to them. The crux is probably topping out, as you may be disappointed by the lack of good holds to help you with this above the roof. Stand up and clip to your victory.

Location

Starts between some bushes a bit right of the end of the roof - up two thin vertical cracks and a slab. First bolt is a bit high and insecure, but then again - they all are.

Protection

I'd recommend a stick clip for the first bolt, and being comfortable with big but mostly safe falls. Luckily, the roof is very well bolted, why couldn't they do the same for the start or the hard slabby bits?

bolts and a two bolt anchor.

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