Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> Europe
> France
> .Snow, Ice & Mixed
> Mont Blanc Range
> Tacul E & Pointe Lach…
Pellissier Gully
WI3+ M4
Avg: 3.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Tacul East and Pointe Lachenal South Faces
|
|
Gabarrou-Albinoni T AI4 M4 Steep Snow PG13 |
|
|
Modica-Noury T AI5 M6- Steep Snow |
|
|
Pellissier Gully T WI3+ M4 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,152 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Hansen on Apr 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
The Pellissier Gully is a short, worth while route near Mont Blanc Tacul's East Face. It's a great option for a short day and is easily accessed via skis from the summit station of the Aiguille du Midi. An easy approach, an easy descent and the option to ski the Vallee Blanche make this an attractive outing.
The route is on Pointe Lachenal. Climb snow easily to where the gully narows to begin the technical climbing.
P1: M3 230' The first pitch steps over the choke near a bolted anchor at the top of the snow. Continue up working through either ice or mixed terrain to reach a block belay (sling) off to the left. This can also be split up into two pitches but one should try to build a belay out of the shooting gallery.
P2: M3 150' Continue up lower angled ice and mixed terrain to a bolted belay about 15m below a chockstone.
P3: M4 130' Continue up snow and then turn a chockstone easily. Continue up some steepening snow until you arrive at a slab (when the route is dry) or some lower angled ice. The slab, when dry, is the route's crux. Good pro, good locks but marginal feet will see you to a bolted belay up and left below another steep, short wall.
P4: 80' M3 Continue up intimidatingly steep terrain out left. It may look steep but it's all jugs. Belay on the ridge at slings.
P4: (Alternate Option) 150' M6 Move out right to a wide slot of sorts. Keep climbing up this as it steepens and becomes increasingly difficult. Belay on the same ridge only higher up.
Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes.
The route is on Pointe Lachenal. Climb snow easily to where the gully narows to begin the technical climbing.
P1: M3 230' The first pitch steps over the choke near a bolted anchor at the top of the snow. Continue up working through either ice or mixed terrain to reach a block belay (sling) off to the left. This can also be split up into two pitches but one should try to build a belay out of the shooting gallery.
P2: M3 150' Continue up lower angled ice and mixed terrain to a bolted belay about 15m below a chockstone.
P3: M4 130' Continue up snow and then turn a chockstone easily. Continue up some steepening snow until you arrive at a slab (when the route is dry) or some lower angled ice. The slab, when dry, is the route's crux. Good pro, good locks but marginal feet will see you to a bolted belay up and left below another steep, short wall.
P4: 80' M3 Continue up intimidatingly steep terrain out left. It may look steep but it's all jugs. Belay on the ridge at slings.
P4: (Alternate Option) 150' M6 Move out right to a wide slot of sorts. Keep climbing up this as it steepens and becomes increasingly difficult. Belay on the same ridge only higher up.
Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes.
0 Comments