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Plan 9 from Outer Space
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 2
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Routes in Ed Wood Memorial Buttress
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Plan 9 from Outer Space T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), 16 pitches |
| FA: | M.Layton/E.Wolfe 2006 |
| Page Views: | 926 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | MisterE Wolfe on Apr 27, 2019 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Fun, varied climbing on the right edge of a prominent buttress leads to the "Bela Lugosi Traverse" below a large ledge (scary, but moderate). Continue up a steep dihedral good rock to the summit of "The Blob".
As with many climbs of this alpine variety, the rating may vary according to the line one chooses.
We rated it 5.10c, but it was repeated and down-rated to 5.9. Hence the 5.9+ rating, as a compromise.
As with many climbs of this alpine variety, the rating may vary according to the line one chooses.
We rated it 5.10c, but it was repeated and down-rated to 5.9. Hence the 5.9+ rating, as a compromise.
Protection
Gear to 3", no fixed anchors.
Descend by traversing the Blob ridge north to the Blob/Terror Col (an adventure in itself - short simul'ing is recommended). Look for webbing anchors over a steep section at the col edge, and rappel from there into the notch. An easy scramble down the col leads back to the bench, and maybe a rinse in a pool.
Descend by traversing the Blob ridge north to the Blob/Terror Col (an adventure in itself - short simul'ing is recommended). Look for webbing anchors over a steep section at the col edge, and rappel from there into the notch. An easy scramble down the col leads back to the bench, and maybe a rinse in a pool.
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