PRINT: Rock Climb Zeus, Central Arizona

Zeus

5.10c/d, Trad, 105 ft (32 m), Grade V,

Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: Michael Gladkin, Manny Rangel, Matt Johnson - April 2019
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Little England Wall

Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.

You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…

Description

Zeus (5.10c/d) is a mixed trad and sport route that starts in the obvious crack for about 40ft and then continues on the face passing 8 bolts to achieve fixed anchors on top of the tower. You can climb this route and rappel with a 60m if you walk and start up on the ledge with the tree. Or start to the left and below the ledge and use a 70m rope. The trad section climbs around 5.8 with the crux being through the sport section so don't be afraid to send this one if your trad skills aren't honed to 5.10!

Location

Zeus is located on the Little England Wall and easily accessible by the LEW walk up or by climbing to the top of the Trident and walking off the back to access the route. The route is located to the left of the GP route and Poseidon.

Protection

single rack 0.3 to 4 (5 optional), 8 bolts, fixed anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Frank Vers on The Sharp End cruising up Zeus.

buttshot

Meandering

Follow the lightning bolt crack and then pass 8 bolts to gain the summit and fixed anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dennis Williams
Mesa

If you thought you had exhausted Atlantis think again. Great mixed route. Full-on crack transitioning to full-on thin pumpy potato chip crimps for 4 to 5 bolts before there is even a hint of rest. Going back for more. Oct 20, 2021

Andrew Park
Grand Junction, CO

5.10+

Protection beta is spot on. Dump the cams before the first bolt. Permadraw to lower at anchors. Still a bit dirty, but a few more ascents should clean it up. Sport section is baller. Great find. Apr 3, 2022

Dennis Williams
Mesa

After climbing yesterday, watched from the parking area as a climber topped out on Zeus. Then watched as they apparently pulled the gear and a second climber went up. They took a short fall after clipping the 1st bolt, then a nice whip, probably 20 feet, when attempting to clip the second bolt from a position far to the right. After a few more tries they apparently lowered off from the second bolt. I hope they are OK. It was highly entertaining to watch the proceedings. Only another climber can appreciate the beauty of seeing someone out there striving at their extreme limit. I applaud the determined attempt.

I can see from the notes that I got the bolts wrong by one each, but the other details are essentially correct. It's pretty far from the parking area and individual bolts can't be seen. I still applaud the attempt. Apr 3, 2022

Eduardo Santana
Maricopa County, AZ

5.10c

A gem in Atlantis— by far my favorite line here besides Poseidon’s Throne. Super solid rock for the most part besides a few loose plates. Seems like a key hold at the crux between bolt 2&3 (I think? I’ll update once I give it another send) ripped, making the sequence a little tougher. I wouldn’t say it increases the grade but you have to use a not-so-positive crimp. Nonetheless it’s a wicked fun mixed route with two distinct rests. Don’t miss out! Oct 10, 2022