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Sunlover

5.10+ PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: N.Colton, April 1980
International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Pembroke > Range E (Saddle… > Trevallen Cliff
Access Issue: Bird closures Details

Description

British E3 5c.  

A classic an appealing route, if a little spoiled by the boulder that sits under the route now.

Traditionally would be started by steeply pulling up the crack to the break and leading left to the arete, the large boulder now makes it so one can just clamber up the boulder to this point. It is essential to place a large wire in one of the slots on the right to keep you from hitting the boulder if you fall, and this placement can easily be forgotten as it is also a handhold. Thankfully, it is only a couple moves to do and reverse back to the boulder when sussing out the placement/general risk. 

After securing this, head up with greater comfort and security, trending rightward under bulges, eventually pulling onto a ledge.   From here, go up the corner and exit right (perhaps more right than you would think)

Location

From the abseil, head west, scrambling by the boulders.  This is the route on the arete hanging wall, presently marked by a large unfortunate boulder that has washed up directly under the route (note: this boulder is not present on the rockfax topo).  Non-tidal.

Protection

Wires, cams up to BD#1. Likely a fixed thread. Gear anchor at top.

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Sunlover (E3 5c). Trevallen Cliff, Pembroke
[Hide Photo] Sunlover (E3 5c). Trevallen Cliff, Pembroke