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Jamais Vu
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Chris Hirsch?, ground-up, rope solo, March '19 |
Page Views: | 675 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Apr 23, 2019 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This climbs the major cleft in the middle of the South face and is suited for offwidth/chimney lovers. A decent route of the wider variety and the literal opposite of 'Deja Vu'.
P1: (5.9, 115') Climb up easy ledges to reach the chute with dual cracks, just above the schist band. Stem up this fun part to the top of the flake on the right. Then stem over left into the flared chimney with a fist crack in the back. Belay at a huge ledge with two bolts on the right side.
P2: (5.8, 100) Continue up the semi-easy chimney with no pro (unless you bring some XL cams). Just when the chimney pinches down and forces you to climb outside the crack, build a nest of small gear to protect the brief crux. Much easy chimney takes you to the top. Belay from bolts.
Rappel down Raisins or Deja Vu.
P1: (5.9, 115') Climb up easy ledges to reach the chute with dual cracks, just above the schist band. Stem up this fun part to the top of the flake on the right. Then stem over left into the flared chimney with a fist crack in the back. Belay at a huge ledge with two bolts on the right side.
P2: (5.8, 100) Continue up the semi-easy chimney with no pro (unless you bring some XL cams). Just when the chimney pinches down and forces you to climb outside the crack, build a nest of small gear to protect the brief crux. Much easy chimney takes you to the top. Belay from bolts.
Rappel down Raisins or Deja Vu.
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