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> Mother Carey's Kitchen
Zeppelin
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Brazen Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cracks, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Herod T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Joyous Gard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Meridian T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rock Idol T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunsmoke T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Threadneedle Street T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Zeppelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P. Littlejohn & R. Harrison, Aug 1977 |
| Page Views: | 587 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Heins on Apr 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland |
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Description
UK grade of E3 5c. A must do for anyone at the grade in Pembroke.
Who knew E3 trad could be this overhung? Thankfully made up for with plenty of gear, massive holds, and nice rests, Zeppelin tackles what feels like it should be an impossible line for the grade up the intimidating overhanging wall on the left of Mother Carey's Kitchen.
The route has a large ledge that allows for being split into 2 pitches, but is most enjoyably tackled as 1 mega pitch.
P1: Climb up large holds to the right of a tide pool to massive threads, some of which may have fixed cord you can clip. Always inspect these for wear, and otherwise place your own with slings. Continue up steep overhangs finding the large holds when possible up to the large belay ledge. See if you can find the kneebar and tenuous lay-down hands free rests in between steep sections!
P2: Pull up to the corner on the left side of the belay ledge, and continue more easily to the top. Build a gear anchor with outcrops above, but carefully ensure said rocks are solid.
Access: At low tide, ab in off the stake in the dip to climbers left of Brazen Buttress and scramble along the rocks to the base of the route by a tide pool, or do a targeted abseil at higher tide.
Who knew E3 trad could be this overhung? Thankfully made up for with plenty of gear, massive holds, and nice rests, Zeppelin tackles what feels like it should be an impossible line for the grade up the intimidating overhanging wall on the left of Mother Carey's Kitchen.
The route has a large ledge that allows for being split into 2 pitches, but is most enjoyably tackled as 1 mega pitch.
P1: Climb up large holds to the right of a tide pool to massive threads, some of which may have fixed cord you can clip. Always inspect these for wear, and otherwise place your own with slings. Continue up steep overhangs finding the large holds when possible up to the large belay ledge. See if you can find the kneebar and tenuous lay-down hands free rests in between steep sections!
P2: Pull up to the corner on the left side of the belay ledge, and continue more easily to the top. Build a gear anchor with outcrops above, but carefully ensure said rocks are solid.
Access: At low tide, ab in off the stake in the dip to climbers left of Brazen Buttress and scramble along the rocks to the base of the route by a tide pool, or do a targeted abseil at higher tide.
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