Type: Sport, 700 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 314 total · 34/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Apr 22, 2019
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

Fantastic scenery and fun consistent climbing make this a great outing.  The cruxes are all short and well-protected, the belays are all comfy, and route finding is easy.

P1. Climb up the right face using a variety of moves up the broken corner.  It's slightly polished (more than the other pitches).  5.7 and 100'.

P2. More broken corner climbing with a distinct crux on the last 15' that has a big crack on the left and very polished feet on the slab to the right.  Belay at a cool perch between a small pillar and the main wall.  5.7 and 95'.

P3. Start with cool steep moves to the left (though still 5.6) with close bolts.  After 30' transition to very loose scree.  Potentially belay here if there are many people below you.  Or, keep going across the scree (walking) being super careful not to rain rocks down the wall.  Go diagonally right across the gully to the wall on the right where you can see bolts above.  Two-bolt belay ledge.  5.6 and 110'.  Some guidebooks call this two pitches.

P4. 15' of easy climbing to a beautiful left-arching crack wit a few bolts (this is one place where a couple small cams could be placed).  Turns to low-angle easy climbing that trends right to a ledge with belay bolts on the right.  5.9 (short crux) and 120'.

P5. Start on the left wall and a short chimney section.  Crux move getting out of a bulge at 40', then easy climbing to a good stance on the main rib of rock.  5.9 (short crux again) and 80'.

P6. The Money Pitch!  A few easy moves deliver you to a beautiful flake/crack with fun layback or crack moves (even face moves) for 40' feet.  The a surprise second crux confronts you at a slanting wide crack with difficult feet for about 10'.  Then 50' of easy climbing to an anchor just above some trees.  5.9, 120'.

P7. Couple tricky moves of face climbing, then up a dirt gully about 20' to a belay on the left wall.  5.9, 80'.

Interlude: continue up the dirt gully on a well-worn path for about 150' total.  Look for a large cairn and go slightly left near the top to the base of an obvious large crack.

P8. Do a tricky move to the right of the crack, then crank up huge holds as the climbing eases over 30' through a shallow chimney.  Reach a flat ledge 30' across (optional belay), then continue up the final easy 5.7 moves to the top just below the road.  5.9 and 100'.

Location

Follow the directions for Falaise de Belvedere des Malines.  Once at the bottom, follow the flat-ish path to the left.  Keep an eye up to the cliff, and after 100-200' you'll see a scree slope and a large cairn on the trail.  Head up to the gully and you should see bolts on the right face of the cliff and "Voie des Dalles" painted in red at the base.

Protection

Bring 12-15 quickdraws. If you're pushing your limit, bring a few small to medium cams to supplement a few crux moves, but not necessary.

Photos

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