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Jafar's Burro

5.6 PG13, Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Wolfe, Alexander
Utah > San Rafael Dese… > Head Spur

Description

Pitch 1 – Begin on the east side of the formation up a short steep pocketed face to a fixed pin. Pull the crux at the pin and continue up easier slab (5.3 run-out and a little sandy) to a tree anchor. 5.6 PG-13 50 feet

Pitch 2 – Hike south on a wide ledge and then scramble (5.0-5.4 depending on path taken) 300 feet to a broad shoulder 50 feet below the the summit. Easier scrambling is found further south (we descended that way but took a more direct line to the top). From the broad shoulder traverse on a sandy, narrow ledge on the west side of the formation until you can scramble up a sandy, exposed gully near the north ridge. Reach a spacious ledge before the summit boulders. 5.0-5.4 R, 400 feet.

Pitch 3 – The northern boulder block is the true summit. Climb up a fractured crack on the east side of the summit block to the top. This section has to be down-climbed. 5.4, 15 feet

Walk to the south side of south summit boulder and rappel 50 feet from a bolted anchor. Down-climb to the tree and rappel 60 feet to the ground.

Protection

BD C4#0.5-2

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Summit views
[Hide Photo] Summit views
The start of pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] The start of pitch 1.
Scrambling on the second pitch
[Hide Photo] Scrambling on the second pitch