Type: Trad
FA: I believe Paco Zamora but not fully sure
Page Views: 297 total · 11/month
Shared By: Francisco Herrera on Apr 21, 2019
Admins: Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

The route climbs the arete left of Crema de Cacahuate. Start on the right side of the arete then move left where the bolts start for the first crux. Move right to exit the arete and get into a corner under a small overhang. Pass the overhang to the right to a small ledge, and go straight-left as if getting into the void/arete again, you will see a small shallow crack at the exit.

While standing on the ledge you will notice the bolts continue to the right. The route described here uses only the first bolt and does not follow the others. I don't know if exiting straight is or not the original route, but that way is definitely more beautiful and makes it a far greater line since it adds another crux in the last part.

Protect carefully throughout all the route. Thin pieces at the beginning, bolts, some small cams in the corner with the overhang, one last bolt on the ledge and exit with a cam. The line as described here is amazing, it has exposure, thin moves and requires focus and good mindset. It has a couple of runouts that, while not very long and at easier terrain, due to the angle, a fall there would not be desired. See the picture/topo for more details.

All of these make this line an amazing master piece for any climber wanting to test his all-around skills.

Location

The arete left to Crema de Cacahuate.

Protection

Stoppers, small and medium cams, and some bolts

Photos

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