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Satisfaccion
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in El Segundo Piso
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Acrofobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Crema de Cacahuate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diedro Negro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dos Burros T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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El Poder No Tiene Limites T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kukus Clan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Hercules T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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La Paloma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Limites del Poder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Satisfaccion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unknown (Right Dihedral) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Viaje Magico y Misterioso T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 19.26948, -99.2942 |
| FA: | I believe Paco Zamora but not fully sure |
| Page Views: | 659 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Francisco Herrera on Apr 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
The route climbs the arete left of Crema de Cacahuate. Start on the right side of the arete then move left where the bolts start for the first crux. Move right to exit the arete and get into a corner under a small overhang. Pass the overhang to the right to a small ledge, and go straight-left as if getting into the void/arete again, you will see a small shallow crack at the exit.
While standing on the ledge you will notice the bolts continue to the right. The route described here uses only the first bolt and does not follow the others. I don't know if exiting straight is or not the original route, but that way is definitely more beautiful and makes it a far greater line since it adds another crux in the last part.
Protect carefully throughout all the route. Thin pieces at the beginning, bolts, some small cams in the corner with the overhang, one last bolt on the ledge and exit with a cam. The line as described here is amazing, it has exposure, thin moves and requires focus and good mindset. It has a couple of runouts that, while not very long and at easier terrain, due to the angle, a fall there would not be desired. See the picture/topo for more details.
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