Type: Sport, 280 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jerry Daniels, Simeon Heimowitz, 2019
Page Views: 183 total · 36/month
Shared By: Nathan Paluck on Apr 18, 2019
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

This route came to be after setting the new rap route for climbers who summit the Peña. This was an initiative between the town and Chichidho ecolodge to avoid congestion on the previous rappel route that crosses the via ferrata, used by tourist groups and religious processions. So, spread the word: Use this new rappel route! It can be done in three raps with a 70m rope (link last two pitches) and in four raps with 60m rope.

The route Chasing the Moon was bolted by Jerry Daniels and Simeon Heimowitz. It is very well-protected and professionally done.

All grades below are tentative and subject to the opinion of others!
 
1st pitch: 5.10b. Fun, bouldery start with slopers through the first 4 bolts.

2nd: 5.9. Fairly unforgettable pitch, with one interesting move in the middle. I would recommend linking first two pitches. Arriving to the ledge, skip the first anchor, continue on left up a dirt scramble (use one bolt placed in the scramble section), and belay from the second set of bolts.

3rd: 5.10a. Slabby start going into vertical face climbing. Very fun!

4th. 5.6. Almost a scramble to the top. Again it is worth linking pitches 3 and 4. Use extendable quickdraws for the fourth pitch.

Location

Go up the Peña tourist trail. Continue past La Bernalina. Arriving to the mini white chapel near the face of the peña, take a left. Scramble up 15 feet and you arrive to a large ledge, and the first pitch belay spot of Chasing the Moon. Careful of falling rocks from this ledge! Stay closer to the rock when on this ledge. The route is new and rocks still fall.

Protection

12 quickdraws, more if linking pitches. 60 or 70m rope fine.

Photos