Type: Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brent Barghahn and Rob Pizem, 2019
Page Views: 1,447 total · 45/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on Apr 12, 2019 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An awesome mostly-bolted line up the striking arete! Gear is required for sections 5.10 and under, but the cruxes are all bolted face climbing. Awesome views of the river and Castle Valley.

Pitch 1: A bolted boulder problem up the rampy flare gains some rambly terrain. Hand traverse right at the 4th bolt to easy terrain up to a stance in the corner. 2 bolts for a belay. 5.11b

Pitch 2: Head up the hand crack corner for 20 feet and then bust hard left through a cryptic bolted slab traverse. 2 bolts for a belay at the sky ledge, comfy bench included! 5.12a

Pitch 3: Climb the left side of the arete through some moderate terrain with a few bouldery sections. 2 bolts at a slopey stance. 5.12b

Pitch 4: Climb the right side of the arete through sustained climbing with a distinct crux. 2 bolts at a nice stance below the lip. 5.12c

Rappels: Rap with a single 70m down the route into the corner of Summer Breeze. One mini rap required just before the ground, P1 is slightly longer than 35m.

Location

The knifeblade prow of the obvious pinnacle. Start at the bolted leaning flare just right of the pinnacle prow

Protection

Singles 0.3-2, extra hand sized optional. 16 draws

Photos