Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: D Brayshaw Carl Fleet Brad Hoffman 1996
Page Views: 357 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Apr 10, 2019
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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A fun climb that feels similar to The Worlds Toughest Milkman at Murrin, but more facey and less of a crack. Start up a low-gradient arete and climb easily to a ledge (medium nut partway up). Move left around a vague arete onto a steep to slightly overhanging face and climb up huge holds with good gear placements to an upper ledge. A 5.9 variant to the start (D. Brayshaw, J. Ford, C Campbell 2009) climbs a right-angling handcrack that begins 6 m to the left to the same ledge, avoiding the low-gradient start.


Across from the Courthouse at the tightest part of the canyon, just after you come out of a squeeze between a big boulder and the cliff wall. Look for the handcrack of the left variation to orient yourself.


All gear. Bring stuff up to #3 or #4 Camalot. Rap rings on the top ledge, rappel descent.


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