Clintons Main Squeeze AKA: The Monica Lewinsky Crack
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches |
FA: | Matt Scherer, Jacob Mader, Collin White: Ground Up |
Page Views: | 243 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | matt scherer on Apr 9, 2019 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
This is a long and exposed multi-pitch adventure route with no bolts or fixed gear.
P1: start up the short chimney then make exposed moves out right to the splitter crack. Jam and stem up the crack to a rest before the crux. hand and fist jam through the wide crack into a wide pod. once the crack ends move up and slightly right to a flake and build an anchor. 5.9
P2: form the P1 anchor belay or scramble to the next obvious ledge. from the ledge down climb into the notch and make the exposed step across. climb up the slab into the flake then from the flake move right into the thin crack. make an anchor at the top of the thin crack. 5.9+ PG-13
P3: from the P2 anchor scramble to the top of the ledge. Again down climb into the notch and step across into the splitter hand crack. climb the hand crack to the bulge then place small gear and pull over the bulge. climb the slab to the summit. 5.9+
P1: start up the short chimney then make exposed moves out right to the splitter crack. Jam and stem up the crack to a rest before the crux. hand and fist jam through the wide crack into a wide pod. once the crack ends move up and slightly right to a flake and build an anchor. 5.9
P2: form the P1 anchor belay or scramble to the next obvious ledge. from the ledge down climb into the notch and make the exposed step across. climb up the slab into the flake then from the flake move right into the thin crack. make an anchor at the top of the thin crack. 5.9+ PG-13
P3: from the P2 anchor scramble to the top of the ledge. Again down climb into the notch and step across into the splitter hand crack. climb the hand crack to the bulge then place small gear and pull over the bulge. climb the slab to the summit. 5.9+
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