Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 9 pitches
FA: Pat Baumann, Mar 2019
Page Views: 983 total · 17/month
Shared By: atavist on Apr 8, 2019
Admins: Eric Och

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

P1 - (Low and Hanging Fruit) Follow 9 bolts up the slab.  Pitch trends right then cuts left after the last bolt.  Belay off tree.  Despite the paucity, bolts are where you want them.  Runout on relatively easier terrain.  Give the lead to your slab afficionado or whoever likes to fly.  (5.11aR 65m)

P2 - A series of boulder problems between big ledges (V0, V0, V0, V1).  Save #0.5-0.75 for the crux lieback.  At the top of the lieback is an optional belay (rap anchor) followed by another 20-25m of 4th class thru a wooded section.  Stop at the base of a short flaring chimney and belay off a tree.  The optional belay facilitates communication and can prevent decking on any of the ledges, especially the lieback.  (5.10b 45m)

P3 - Up the chimney.  Come out early and immediately cut left (most people go too high and get caught in bushes).  Follow cracks up under a roof.  Traverse under the roof, pass a short crux, belay off tree.  Be mindful of follower when placing gear.  For the best pro, I´ve found a #2 up high before the crux and #0.4 just after.  (5.10c 20m)

P4 - Follow the crack to a bolted belay.  Burly move off the belay to get started, then fingers.  If you have a #4, you can use it near the top.  (5.11a 25m)

P5 - For best value, stay on the rock.  Walk the low angle slab to the right staying close to the edge.  Find gear or sling a healthy tree before crossing a short slab and gaining the arete.  Follow the arete to a fixed anchor on a tree.  This option is just over 70m and may or may not require simul, depending on pro placements.  Alternatively, minimize exposure and take a shortcut directly to the anchor.  This option passes more trees.  (5.9 75m or 5.8 60m)

P6 - ´La Vereda Arista´, follow the sidewalk-width arete to another tree belay.  Look for gear and take it where you can get it, mostly small pieces.  (5.8 30m)

P7-9 - There´s still 200m to go, most of which can be walked.  Stay as close as possible to the ridge proper.  Start off by blazing 30m thru a copse of trees.  Then follow the ridge to the summit.  The easy going is interrupted by short sections of 5th class up to 5.7.  For some, solo or simul will be a good option but many will want to be roped.  For anchors, sling large blocks.  A tree at the base of a ~6m gendarme makes a convenient place to end p8.  This gendarme is the biggest obstacle of these pitches and the top will have you hanging on a real knife-edge. (5.7 200m)

Descent options:
#1 - It is possible to descend the route with a single 60m rope.  This requires down climbing the ridge back to the top of P6.  Then 5x30m raps gets you to the top of P1.  Either rap P1 with 2x60m ropes or walk off climber´s left.

#2 - A single 60m rappel will land you at the base of Al Centro y Adentro.  Follow the gully back to the base or the bivy boulder.  Or a 30m rap and some scrambling will also get you down.  Or down climb from the summit to the col, it´s ~5.7.

#3 - If it´s early complete the ´Bottoms Up Challenge´.  Link D´Arriba Abajo Al Centro y Adentro.  Salut!!

Location Suggest change

15 minutes approach from the bivy boulder.  Most of the route is visible from the bivy boulder and the main clearing in the Anfiteatro.  Most of the first pitch slab is obscured by the trees until close, but the P2 lieback and especially the P4 crack are easy to spot.  The sidewalk arete on P6 is also easily visible.  The final summit ridge is visible from the Penthouse and elsewhere on the western side of Anfi.  

For the approach, start out towards the Al Centro gully then go off left to the base of the wall.  There is only one obvious slab but it´s partly obscured by the forest until close.  Look for the bolt line that starts at the base, left of center, trending right.  

Protection Suggest change

One set of cams (#0.2-3, optional #4), 9 long slings, 1x70m rope.  2 ropes makes a more convenient descent off the summit.