Type: Trad, 410 ft (124 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brandon Gottung and Meghan Curry
Page Views: 675 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Apr 7, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Welcome to the dark side.

Climbing Lucifer's Litany feels like a dark prayer. I doubt the sun ever touches this route, giving it an eerie yet enticing character. Ominous streaks of green and black lichen provide a spectacular backdrop for this vicious crack. Repent your sins, climb Lucifer's Litany! 

Pitch 1 5.10b 10 meters: The dark lord first offers a welcome warm-up for the battle ahead. Climb the nearly horizontal roof with handjams, finger locks and underclings. Belay off of small gear on the manky ledge.

Pitch 2 5.11c 30 meters: A tenuous move off belay leads to a good rest before the wicked tips to hips crux sequence up the overhanging corner. Success earns a squeeze chimney thrashing. Belay at fixed stoppers on a good but cramped stance.

Pitch 3 5.11b 30 meters: Lichen was sacrificed during the FA of this pitch, earning the name Lichen 4 Lucifer. Climb up the tight chimney, out a wide hands roof to a punishing off-fist corner. Belay at the angling ledge (backing up the fixed stoppers).

Pitch 4 5.9+ 40 meters:
Stem and thrutch up the wide corner protected with tipped 5s (or the optional 6) then continue up the thin, slabby corner. If the upper corner feels too bold, finish with the last pitch of Proverbs of Hell.

Location

North Face of Squaretop. See topo for details.

Protection

Single set cams tiny to #1, double set #2 to #5. #6 is optional and probably not worth the weight. Slim set of stoppers micro to medium. 60 meter rope minimum.

Weather

It is cold and dark here up here. Temperature needs to be nearly 80 degrees or more in Las Cruces to be comfortable on this sunless face.

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