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> Painted Wall Right Side.
Azeanna
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in The Painted Wall Right Side.
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Azeanna T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Keith Azevedo and Wendy Hanna |
| Page Views: | 945 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Keith A on Apr 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Bob Moseley, Nate Ball, Dan Flynn |
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Description
P1: 3 options
P1a: 5.11d, 33m, 4 bolts, tree anchor:
Direttisima: Start at the base of two twin cracks. After 4m trend right to clip a bolt and gain the arête, take care as arête has areas of soft and sometimes hollow rock. Continue up arête with C3s for protection in good crack to left, clip 3 more bolts before gaining a no hands rest at base of crack that begins to pierce arête. Great finger jams lead to left facing corner with slightly overhanging finger crack in soft brown sandstone. Continue up right trending crack system. From here until top, take care to find appropriate protection as rock continues to soften. Three meters from top, step right onto face to find a fixed line (green) for optional protection as top of climb contains rock with questionable protection. Pitch ends at a tree anchor with slings on a large grassy ledge system. Please note: there is a large size rock at the lip of the top out that appears menacing (please avoid), but we were unable to trundle for fear of continuing rock destabilization. Overall an incredible pitch with varied climbing, just be aware of soft rock up high.
P1b: 4th/5th class ramp/gully, 35m:
Angry Birds Gully: Start 30m left of Direttisima at base of right slanting gully with green fixed line. Follow fixed line up ramp system/gully. Angry Birds ramp/gully can be dirty, but provides quick access to pitch 3.
P1c: 5.11, FAA Christoph Bode, 28m, bolted anchor:
Start 30m to the right of Direttisima in a right facing corner that creates an obvious chimney system to bolted anchors. (Note: The protection provided under suggested protection does not include gear for this route as it was not attempted or bolted by us. Also, we do not know any further information about this route as we were unable to find anything published or by mouth.)
P2: 4th/ low 5th class, 10m, bolted anchor:
Scramble to base of right facing corner with bolted anchor.
P3: 5.11b, 35m, bolted anchor:
A phenomenal pitch! Follow the right facing corner that makes up Numb Elbows Tower: from chimney to overhanging hands to fingers, this pitch has it all to reach the bolted anchors on the face.
P4: 5.12b, 30m, 5 bolts, bolted anchor:
Another incredible pitch up the right facing corner of Numb Elbows Tower. From the anchors head up the incipient crack in the right facing corner until it disappears and gives way to a mixed series of technical face and flared corner climbing. Continue up the corner passing 3 bolts to reach a saving crack and easier climbing before the final face that gains the Sunset Ledge. At the base of the final face, place your C4 #5 and climb up a small left facing rib to reach several jug rests. Clip 2 bolts along the way and pull over the final lip to gain Sunset Ledge and a bolted anchor. Note: extensive cleaning was done on the face holds for this pitch, however some remain hollow yet solid. Combining pitches 3 and 4 would make an amazing 65m, full value, pitch.
P5: 5.10c, 28m, tree anchor:
Earth Carpet pitch: From Sunset Ledge, head up and right to gain the beautiful low angled right facing corner. At end of corner, step right to gain the Earth Carpet (awesome) and continue straight up the crack in a low angle face, bringing you closer to the right side edge of the wall, lending excellent views down the southwest face of Painted Wall. When the crack ends, follow low angled steps up and left to base of tree with slings.
P6: 4th class, 10m, bolted belay:
Turtle Traverse: From tree anchor, traverse directly left over classic turtle shell terrain to reach bolted anchor on nice ledge. Could combine this pitch with P5, however rope drag could be a significant issue.
P7: 5.12a, 17m, 2 bolts, tree anchor:
Turtle Tower: Short and stout! From bolted anchor, head directly up the open book corner marked by a tips crack in the back. Technical stemming and few rests, leads past 2 bolts and a fixed nut before pulling over the top to gain a tree on a ledge with slings for an anchor.
P8: 5.9, 25m, bolted anchor:
From bolted belay move up and right to gain crack system. At two small trees in the crack, head right on the face to gain obvious small ledge on face. Sling small tree for possible protection or continue up low angled turtle shell terrain passing another small tree for protection. From second tree, trend right to gain short final crack system accessing a ledge with a bolted anchors. From here, you can rappel (see decent) or continue to the top. Please note: this is the last bolted belay.
P9-10/11: 4th/5th class to top, tree anchors with NO fixed slings:
Depending upon how you choose to split it up, climb 2-3 pitches heading up and right from the belay. These pitches are mainly easy unprotected 4th/5th class terrain that have not been cleaned to any significant extent. We expect most parties will likely bail from the top of pitch 8, however if you are interested in a more excellent adventure, continuing to the top will not disappoint. Once on top, head along the obvious crest with often unseen views of the Pillars Climbing Area across the valley.
Descent:
Option 1: From top of pitch 8, rappel route with a single 70m, a single 60m will NOT be sufficient. Please watch rope ends as a 70m rope often just reaches anchors on rappel. From top of pitch 8 bolt anchors, rappel to tree anchor at top of pitch 7. From top of pitch 7 tree anchor, rappel to top of pitch 6 bolt anchors. From top of pitch 6 bolted anchor, rappel climbers left to reach top of pitch 4 bolted anchor (Sunset Ledge). From top of pitch 4 bolted anchor (Sunset Ledge), rappel to top of pitch 3 bolted anchor. From top of pitch 3 bolted anchor, rappel to top of pitch 1a (Direttisima) tree anchor. From top of pitch 1a (Direttisima) tree anchor, rappel to ground being careful of top out menacing rock (please avoid) mentioned in P1a description above.
Option 2: From top of pitch 10/11, walk off. Requires one 10m rappel or an exciting Lisu ladder down climb…epic. Once down the Lisu ladder, follow a less traveled trail continuing down a gully system heading left and trending back towards the stair system.
P1a: 5.11d, 33m, 4 bolts, tree anchor:
Direttisima: Start at the base of two twin cracks. After 4m trend right to clip a bolt and gain the arête, take care as arête has areas of soft and sometimes hollow rock. Continue up arête with C3s for protection in good crack to left, clip 3 more bolts before gaining a no hands rest at base of crack that begins to pierce arête. Great finger jams lead to left facing corner with slightly overhanging finger crack in soft brown sandstone. Continue up right trending crack system. From here until top, take care to find appropriate protection as rock continues to soften. Three meters from top, step right onto face to find a fixed line (green) for optional protection as top of climb contains rock with questionable protection. Pitch ends at a tree anchor with slings on a large grassy ledge system. Please note: there is a large size rock at the lip of the top out that appears menacing (please avoid), but we were unable to trundle for fear of continuing rock destabilization. Overall an incredible pitch with varied climbing, just be aware of soft rock up high.
P1b: 4th/5th class ramp/gully, 35m:
Angry Birds Gully: Start 30m left of Direttisima at base of right slanting gully with green fixed line. Follow fixed line up ramp system/gully. Angry Birds ramp/gully can be dirty, but provides quick access to pitch 3.
P1c: 5.11, FAA Christoph Bode, 28m, bolted anchor:
Start 30m to the right of Direttisima in a right facing corner that creates an obvious chimney system to bolted anchors. (Note: The protection provided under suggested protection does not include gear for this route as it was not attempted or bolted by us. Also, we do not know any further information about this route as we were unable to find anything published or by mouth.)
P2: 4th/ low 5th class, 10m, bolted anchor:
Scramble to base of right facing corner with bolted anchor.
P3: 5.11b, 35m, bolted anchor:
A phenomenal pitch! Follow the right facing corner that makes up Numb Elbows Tower: from chimney to overhanging hands to fingers, this pitch has it all to reach the bolted anchors on the face.
P4: 5.12b, 30m, 5 bolts, bolted anchor:
Another incredible pitch up the right facing corner of Numb Elbows Tower. From the anchors head up the incipient crack in the right facing corner until it disappears and gives way to a mixed series of technical face and flared corner climbing. Continue up the corner passing 3 bolts to reach a saving crack and easier climbing before the final face that gains the Sunset Ledge. At the base of the final face, place your C4 #5 and climb up a small left facing rib to reach several jug rests. Clip 2 bolts along the way and pull over the final lip to gain Sunset Ledge and a bolted anchor. Note: extensive cleaning was done on the face holds for this pitch, however some remain hollow yet solid. Combining pitches 3 and 4 would make an amazing 65m, full value, pitch.
P5: 5.10c, 28m, tree anchor:
Earth Carpet pitch: From Sunset Ledge, head up and right to gain the beautiful low angled right facing corner. At end of corner, step right to gain the Earth Carpet (awesome) and continue straight up the crack in a low angle face, bringing you closer to the right side edge of the wall, lending excellent views down the southwest face of Painted Wall. When the crack ends, follow low angled steps up and left to base of tree with slings.
P6: 4th class, 10m, bolted belay:
Turtle Traverse: From tree anchor, traverse directly left over classic turtle shell terrain to reach bolted anchor on nice ledge. Could combine this pitch with P5, however rope drag could be a significant issue.
P7: 5.12a, 17m, 2 bolts, tree anchor:
Turtle Tower: Short and stout! From bolted anchor, head directly up the open book corner marked by a tips crack in the back. Technical stemming and few rests, leads past 2 bolts and a fixed nut before pulling over the top to gain a tree on a ledge with slings for an anchor.
P8: 5.9, 25m, bolted anchor:
From bolted belay move up and right to gain crack system. At two small trees in the crack, head right on the face to gain obvious small ledge on face. Sling small tree for possible protection or continue up low angled turtle shell terrain passing another small tree for protection. From second tree, trend right to gain short final crack system accessing a ledge with a bolted anchors. From here, you can rappel (see decent) or continue to the top. Please note: this is the last bolted belay.
P9-10/11: 4th/5th class to top, tree anchors with NO fixed slings:
Depending upon how you choose to split it up, climb 2-3 pitches heading up and right from the belay. These pitches are mainly easy unprotected 4th/5th class terrain that have not been cleaned to any significant extent. We expect most parties will likely bail from the top of pitch 8, however if you are interested in a more excellent adventure, continuing to the top will not disappoint. Once on top, head along the obvious crest with often unseen views of the Pillars Climbing Area across the valley.
Descent:
Option 1: From top of pitch 8, rappel route with a single 70m, a single 60m will NOT be sufficient. Please watch rope ends as a 70m rope often just reaches anchors on rappel. From top of pitch 8 bolt anchors, rappel to tree anchor at top of pitch 7. From top of pitch 7 tree anchor, rappel to top of pitch 6 bolt anchors. From top of pitch 6 bolted anchor, rappel climbers left to reach top of pitch 4 bolted anchor (Sunset Ledge). From top of pitch 4 bolted anchor (Sunset Ledge), rappel to top of pitch 3 bolted anchor. From top of pitch 3 bolted anchor, rappel to top of pitch 1a (Direttisima) tree anchor. From top of pitch 1a (Direttisima) tree anchor, rappel to ground being careful of top out menacing rock (please avoid) mentioned in P1a description above.
Option 2: From top of pitch 10/11, walk off. Requires one 10m rappel or an exciting Lisu ladder down climb…epic. Once down the Lisu ladder, follow a less traveled trail continuing down a gully system heading left and trending back towards the stair system.
Location
Located on the primarily western facing, right side of the Painted Wall. This route is the first known totally free route on Painted Wall that reaches the top. It is in the shade until approximately 13:00.
Follow approach to Lisu Area and at the obvious split boulder instead of heading up to the Pillars, climb over the metal fence of the walkway and cross the brook heading towards the Painted Wall. Once over the brook, follow a well-worn path to the right, traversing lateral beneath the painted wall, with minimal elevation change. After approximately 5 minutes you will be directly under the right side of Painted Wall and will notice another trail on your left (small cairn). Follow this trail (huge thanks to Nick and Blair!) for approximately 5 minutes, initially relatively steeply, to the base of the climb.
Follow approach to Lisu Area and at the obvious split boulder instead of heading up to the Pillars, climb over the metal fence of the walkway and cross the brook heading towards the Painted Wall. Once over the brook, follow a well-worn path to the right, traversing lateral beneath the painted wall, with minimal elevation change. After approximately 5 minutes you will be directly under the right side of Painted Wall and will notice another trail on your left (small cairn). Follow this trail (huge thanks to Nick and Blair!) for approximately 5 minutes, initially relatively steeply, to the base of the climb.
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