Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Brandon Taggart, Jason Stevens March 2019
Page Views: 195 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Apr 7, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is totally NOT terrible. Its a really fun exercise in traverse climbing, and is equally as challenging and "scary" for the second as it is for the leader. It is rated PG13 because a fall for either climber would result in an attention grabbing swing/fall, but would probably not cause any bodily harm. Long draws are recommended.

Start in the jumbled section and surmount a first awkward move. Gain a ledge and clip a bolt high over your right shoulder. Clip another bolt before the mantle to regain easy ground. A separate route moves up and right at this point...continue left across the ramp clipping a few more bolts. A final pure-friction move regains the ledge and a final bolt right of a pod/hole. Tip-toe left across a sloping ramp to the anchor station.

It is not recommended to "lower" the leader like a "regular" sport route. It is probably better to set up a belay as if this were a multi-pitch climb. It is not known if a rope is long enough to lead the route and lower to the ground.

Location

This route follows the left-ascending ramp/weakness in the cliff. It starts in a jumbled/broken area on the right side fo the cliff near a juniper tree. It climbs the ramp and shares anchors with ":Finger-Toe MOFO".

Protection

Glue in bolts to chain anchors. Rappel straight down from the anchors. The FA party climbed this "multi-pitch" style, then leader and belayer rappelled to the ground from the anchors. It is not known if a rope is long enough to lower a climber from the anchors like a "standard" sport route.

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