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Science Friction
5.12c,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
FA: Eric Greulich, 2005
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit
Details
Please DO NOT climb at GFNP (Roadside) without a daily permit per climber in the group. After a long closure, access to Roadside was made possible again in March 2015 under the name Graining Fork Nature Preserve. This access is contingent upon climbers being good stewards and obtaining a daily permit via the
GFNP website. grainingfork.org/ For the sake of the access privilege it is imperative that climbers follow this rule and obtain the daily permit.
Description
Scramble to the top of an 8-foot tall pillar to a ledge. Stare at the seemingly blank rail feature and remind yourself it is still sandstone. Pull on and lieback the rail making use of small divets and fat pinches for your hands and the tiniest of nubs for your trusty feet. Complete this delicate dance of friction and balance and you will be rewarded with a stellar victory lap on beautiful rock until just below the roof. Tech through one last boulder and surmount the roof on sandy jugs to reach the chains.
Exceptional face/friction climbing through the bottom two bolts that is very unique for the Red; which may be why it feels so hard to most climbers in this area.
Location
Follow the split in the trail left just before Roadside Attraction. Just before the trail turns the corner around the cliff, cut up right through a short gully to the cliffline. Follow the cliff right 50 ft to locate a large detached pillar. Science Friction begins on the right side of the pillar. The first bolt is ~20 ft up and is easily stick clipped from the ledge on top of the pillar.
Protection
7 bolts to anchors
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