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Chameleon Pinnacle
5.5,
Trad, 77 ft (23 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 18
votes
FA: Bill Lowman, Betsy & Joe Herbst, Matt McMackin, Nanouk Borche, Howard Booth - Feb 1973
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Southern Outcrops
> Illusion Crags
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
A fun romp up good, solid rock with nice plate features.
Start out on lighter colored rock, move up to the sweet varnished goodness.
Route can be started at the same location as Morph Out, or, the nicer flat area of the Changeling to the right.
Fun!
Location
Up the middle upper face between Morph Out and the Changeling. Start on either aforementioned route and traverse into the upper middle face.
Protection
Set of nuts and set of especially smaller cams from 0 TCU to #1 Camalot. Good horizontals for cams and surprisingly good, captive stopper placements. Use the rappel anchor consisting of a mess of slings threaded behind a block.
Rumor has possibility of topping out the pinnacle with descend down gully to the west? Maybe so...
[Hide Photo] Just below the rappel anchor on the Chameleon Pinnacle.
[Hide Photo] Rappel from community anchor on Chameleon Pinnacle. Upper route follows rope line with options to traverse in from left or right staging area.